I presume, Bumthang receives the highest number of Tshechu compared to other districts in a year. It is blessed by a great Indian saint Guru Padmasambhava in 747 A.D. Following the footsteps of Guru Rinpoche many Buddhist scholars have tried to preserve and promote for the benefit of sentient beings. I have known Bumthang for two things since my early teenage. I knew from books and orally heard that Bumthang is a place where you'll find lots of sacred Buddhist temples in every direction. Another story is, I heard, there used to be lots of evil spirits (demon and witches). I was eager to visit temples/monasteries and hear more about evil beings but reluctant as well.
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| Chamkhar Valley in the evening |
Just stepping in this beautiful Bumthang valley gave me a feeling where many would not be able to express. The energy was so refreshing that I always wanted to spent the rest of my life in this valley. Maybe my prayer was heard by almighty above or I already had a connection from my past karma. I consider myself a fortunate human for getting rarest opportunity to live with soothing energy in so called Bumpa: holy water vessel, thang: plain valley. Beside religiously adorned beauty, Bumthang is also known for the production of best leaders in the history. Since I'm not a good historian, I'm sorry, I've to wind up apolitical histories.
More importantly I'm here to share about local festivals which are in pipeline especially at the end of summer's season. Paedtsheling Goenpa hosts the first and this year it fell on early June. After three months Tamzhing Phala Choedpa coincides with Thimphu Tshechu which is followed by Thangbi, I don't know much of the significance but I have been always able to present at least a day in all the Tshechus.
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| With atsara at Paedtsheling Goenpa on 3rd June 2018 |
Paedtsheling is more than half an hours drive from chamkhar bazaar but road condition is worst during summer. Taxi fare was Nu. 300/- per head. There is another option for those interested one's, walking can take at least two hours.
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| Tamzhing last day on 21st Sept 2018 |
Tamzhing is 3 km away from chamkhar bazaar. Local people says, it is the only monastery lasted for more than five hundred years free from natural disasters. During the last day there will be a blessing for the public. First will be a blessing known as pakpa wang, in which a sacks stitched of leather which is of course filled with sacred treasure, zung as in buddhist term, is hit at the back and it is believed to clear one's path also washing away negativity. Next is to receive a blessing from a statue of Tshepamey which is of course sculpted by Tertoen Pema Lingpa himself.
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| Thangbi Mae-wang on 24th Sept 2018 |
Mae-wang is a fire blessing ceremony and is also the main highlight at Thangbi Tshechu. It is risky if not careful. Keep alert when people rushes to cross the blazing fire; to escape stempede. It is advisable not to rush although many energised will be eager to try. Many Monastry have mae-wang but unlike Thangbi they do it in the night, which I observed is more riskier.
Thangbi is almost 30 minutes drive from Chamkhar. From Kurjey Lhakhang the road is unpaved.
Jakar Tshechu is interesting to watch in a small courtyard. I don't know much about Jakar Tshechu but courtyard is congested which can accommodate less number of people. I had to stand and watch the dance. Nevertheless Jakar dzon is beautifully built. To know more one will have to go through history. The gigantic dzong is located overlooking Chamkhar.
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| 19th Oct 2018 |
Jambay Lhakhang is the oldest monastery in Bhutan and it is believed to have been built by Songtsen Gompo of Tibet before Guru's arrival. But recent researchers believe that the construction of Jambay Lhakhang began even before Songtsen Gompo by the locality. I can't guarantee the reliability in information. Maybe proper research is required. Nevertheless there's one unique chham (dance) performed during late night. It's known as Ter-Chham or naked dance.
Jambay Lhakhang is 10 minutes drive from Chamkhar.
P.s. Tshechu I mentioned is only under Chhokhor Gewog. There are several monasteries which are under other three gewogs.
