Bodh Gaya: The Ruins of Nalanda

The distance between Nalanda and Vulture Peak is approximately 15 km; therefore, it didn't take us more than thirty minutes.

From the bus parking, we immediately rushed towards the gate to collect tickets from the counter. Any visitors are charged, but with different prices. While Indians are charged less than outsiders, I was told westerners are charged even higher than that.

Group photo with His Holiness

This is not a new trend in some parts of Indian places where scams are part of their bread. Be careful! Otherwise, there are scammers in auto drivers, taxi drivers, hoteliers, shopkeepers, street hawkers, beggars, even police officers ready to take advantage of innocents and newcomers.

Before coming, I had heard, read, and watched about Nalanda, which is not only the oldest in the world but also the biggest university of its time. I was also told it took three months to raze down the entire university by fire, and millions of books were burnt.

I couldn't believe I was in that particular place where great panditas like Nagarjuna, Shantrakshikta, Chandrakriti, Shanti Deva, Arya Deva, Asanga, Vasubandhu, and so many others had studied. Though there are boards at all the sites written about the events, it is not enough to make you understand. I was even skeptical when pilgrims were listening to guides. I feel it is better not to listen to distorted information. This is because if you listen, you'll pass it on to others; if you don't listen, you'll not get information, but you will not pass false information.

While inspecting some of the sites, our Kyabje Rinpoche arrived. We assembled to receive oral transmission of Manjusrinamasamgiti, the first chapter of Madhyamaka-alam-kara and madhyamakavatara, recited expressions of reverence of panditas, recited Ganachakra or feast gathering, even had debates at the end within monks.

To be continued.....

Bodh Gaya: The Importance of Mindfulness in Travel

I'm sure we've heard "Bodh Gaya" more than any other place's name, and some of us have dreamt of visiting this place for so long. But not everyone is blessed equally, at least if your dream of visiting is still pending.

Mahabodhi Temple

In my case, I was blessed that the monastery bore all the costs for some 300 monks. Sometimes, I feel that what I've achieved can never be compensated for with what I do in this life, though I don't have much to show materially. Yet, I feel the tightness of having a lot!

As soon as we reached Bodh Gaya, one of our friends from Namdroling Monastery received us and brought us to our rented apartment that would be home for the next 13 days. In a season like this, finding a good room with required amenities is competitive. Somehow, Pema managed to get one for the six of us.

In our group, two could neither speak nor understand Hindi, two of course understood and spoke a little, while another two were a bit more advanced. I fell into the third category, which means I was bound to talk and do miscellaneous activities.

Since we reached four days ahead of '35th Nyingma Monlam Chenmo' on the second day, we were informed to reach Vulture Peak, the place in Rajgir which is approximately 75 km away. This meant we were supposed to wake up early in the morning because the bus takes nearly three hours. We missed our 2 a.m. alarm. 

The 22-hour journey the previous day and night on the bus actually made us go deep into sleep. I don't know if it is luck, but something woke me up. I checked my phone to find it was 5:56 a.m. I couldn't believe it, rubbed my eyes, carefully squinted before uttering, “yalama chu tshe khung dewa la!” One of them quickly responded, “Hung? Mangi du ko.” I showed him my phone, “5:56 dewa la.” By that time, all hurried from their mattresses and rushed to their belongings.

Many of our friends had called us on messenger, some even tried calling us but received no response. Hoping to reach the place on time, we had to take a taxi. We couldn't make it to the oral transmission of Prajnaparamita, but at least got satisfaction that we sat for a few minutes in the presence of our own Guru and chanted a short version of the same scripture.

To be continued.......

Why Clay Pot Saving?

I purchased this from Chamkhar and named it to receive blessing from the god of wealth. I have even written 'Jamyang Ku' at the other side of the pot which is not visible.  That means the reason for storing is to buy a statute of Manjushri, god of my birth sign.

When it comes to saving, not necessarily cash, I'm someone who doesn't have enough to expense even a lunch trip. Yet it is surprising to realize how I saved in one of the most convenient bank I bought and named for myself 'Dzambhala'—the god of wealth.

9th May 2020-16 March 2023

It all began with my interest in 'no to waste' rather than 'saving for the future.' Though, you might find, these two approaches have the same outcome, I personally find and believe, that the intention is different. I'll not preach the difference since I've no interest and also for a reason that I'm writing this to tell you why I saved in mud bank—points supported by first approach. 

If you happened to be a bikshu like us then it is common to receive offerings from lay people. In the olden days people would offer foods but today they offer cash as a substitute or mainly because of its convenience. 

When I joined the sangha community I had, never in my wildest dream, thought of accumulating materialistic things. But I've learned the value of having and not having over the time. It is about finding effective solution with whatever little you've. Hence my clay pot idea became a part of storing bank notes to avoid unnecessary wastes.

Initially I stored lower notes but the size of clay pot changed that. I stored bigger notes, occasionally,  to avoid from getting full within a short duration. However I could keep it for less than four years only. By the way I wanted to keep another five more years but, as I said, the size of clay pot matters in the long run. And also because I'm ex-business student, it is my responsibility to give back to the economy what some of us might consider—a healthy contribution. 

I would urge everyone to store for few years till it becomes available to bring before the real banking institutions. The reason why I'm saying this is because we cannot visit banks regularly based on certain reasons. For instance even when you have time, you won't have notes, because you don't have fixed income. The best way I found is to do what I've been doing. Indeed I'm doing this until I find a better solution.

Well it might be of less importance to some of you, But it can change the entire course for someone. If you've been wondering how much I hoard in that mud I've the lists. 

Notes:

500*5

100*42

50*13

20*14

10*30

5*13

1*4

Coins: 

2 Indians 

3 cents

1 Bhutanese

Visited underrated Lugiraw—the horn of a sheep

Monstery seen from Kakaling

I presume most of us would have never heard, let alone reached, one of the underrated monasteries located about a 2-hour walk from Lusbi. I've been longing to go there ever since I started hearing the name: 'lugiraw,' 'lug-sheep,' 'raw-horn,' which roughly translates into ‘sheep's horn’ or ‘horn of a sheep.’ To my utter surprise, I came to know interesting stories after I reached the monastery along with 20 other pilgrims. I'll narrate some of them, although I am not eloquent enough to do as much as some of you expect from me.

I think knowing route is as important as having a proper guide. I'm sharing first about this. 

We drove from Kurjey Lhakhang towards Dur. After fifteen minutes, we came across a junction, took the right road towards BHU, and then took another right turn onto an unpaved road, which led us to Lusbi village. We drove until we reached the end of a bumpy road for a few minutes. We distributed our packed lunch amongst ourselves before we began our actual trek. Within that short span of time, another group, apparently T-Cell staff in their twenties, came smilingly out of their Bolero Camper. Together, we started climbing from the base of a mountain that would take us to our destination. In the beginning, I felt so tired that I even thought of giving up. As I walked further, carrying a 15kg rice container, my body couldn't adjust, so I had to share the burden of carrying the heavy lunch box with my young nephews. Then, I felt relieved with a water bottle and a few chewing gums in my side bag. Frankly speaking, I didn't find the path too strenuous, especially when I saw my 9-year-old niece managing it. She had some difficulty initially, which is common for almost everyone. Once we reached Manithang, a small stupa on the way, the terrain became flat, and we descended until we reached the monastery. Our group took 1 hour and 40 minutes, including breaks; otherwise, it wouldn't take long for regular hikersWe drove from Kurjey Lhakhang towards Dur. After fifteen minutes, we came across a junction, took the right road towards BHU, and then took another right turn onto an unpaved road, which led us to Lusbi village. We drove until we reached the end of a bumpy road for a few minutes. We distributed our packed lunch amongst ourselves before we began our actual trek. Within that short span of time, another group, apparently T-Cell staff in their twenties, came smilingly out of their Bolero Camper. Together, we started climbing from the base of a mountain that would take us to our destination. In the beginning, I felt so tired that I even thought of giving up. As I walked further, carrying a 15kg rice container, my body couldn't adjust, so I had to share the burden of carrying the heavy lunch box with my young nephews. Then, I felt relieved with a water bottle and a few chewing gums in my side bag. Frankly speaking, I didn't find the path too strenuous, especially when I saw my 9-year-old niece managing it. She had some difficulty initially, which is common for almost everyone. Once we reached Manithang, a small stupa on the way, the terrain became flat, and we descended until we reached the monastery. Our group took 1 hour and 40 minutes, including breaks; otherwise, it wouldn't take long for regular hikers. 

If I've forgotten to introduce anyone, it's the caretaker of the monastery who has been with us from the beginning of our journey. He is a kind Lama, the source of many of the stories I will share.

The Lama stays alone, looking after the monastery, but that's not the only reason I'm surprised by him. It's when he told me how he carried gas cylinders and other heavy items like rice bags and water tanks that I was even more amazed. He doesn't use horses to carry heavyweight items. In the simplicity of his life, I saw the qualities of a spiritual seeker who doesn't take anything for granted. I thought that if I truly want to spend time in the woods, knowing life-hacking skills is important, something I didn't realize until I met the Lama. In my observation, the Lama was like a well-equipped explorer venturing into a wildlife safari.

Now, let me share some of the sacred sites of Lugiraw by introducing the founder. According to Sonam Darjay, the caretaker in 2011, the foundation of the current monastery was laid by a famous Geshe Kharak Gomchung from Tibet. The present monastery was extended in the 17th century. The place became more famous, and it got the name from an incident that is narrated by many: Yogi Kharak Gomchung had a sheep accompanying him in carrying his baggage. One day, deities, spirits, and demons were causing harm, cracking the cave in which he was meditating. Miraculously, Geshe Kharak lifted the cave with one of his legs, and at that instant, his sheep came to the rescue, lifting a cave with its horn. Evil spirits were subdued in that moment. We can see the print of the horn and foot, the phodrang of subdued spirits, and the seat of a master evidently behind the monastery. Hence, the name of the monastery. The Eto Meto tree was used for tethering sheep, and I had an opportunity to observe it up close. The holy water below the cave has now dried up, but one can still see the cave getting wet in the area. There are sacred nangtens as well, which I won't elaborate on for some reason.

Print of horn

Eto meto tree, spirits phodrang, foot print and seat of Lama.

Do and don’ts for monks

According to the present Lama, the monastery remained under the care of Tamzhing Chhoeje and descendants for many years. With time, managing it became difficult for the family, so it was handed over to Trongsa Rabdey.

I saw a large desho paper pasted against the wall on the top floor. My curiosity couldn't hold me back from asking the Lama about the purpose of that paper. Upon careful inspection, I could read some of the discipline-related words, though most had worn out. I was told that there were some hundreds of monks, and people from as far as Thangbi would bring monks for their ritualistic purposes. The daily learning of the monks included some of the basic rig-nye, and people living nearby the monastery paid taxes to the powerful lord, and the Lama had influential political powers as well.

It's sad to see that the monastery is in dire need of restoration. It feels like the monastery is completely forgotten by everyone. I hope the concerned authorities will look into it as they would any other important issue.

This monastery may hardly have any space on the visitors' list, but those who make it here will definitely fall in love with it

I ventured into Bonbji—the place of bõn

I never thought I would visit Bemji, one of the remote villages under Nubi gewog in Trongsa. It was only after reaching there and searching online that I learned more about that place.

Nephew Chokden was my guide when I visited Naktsang,  with Kanjur Lhakhang seen in the background. 

Before I share with you the historical significance, let me explain how I reached there.

One of the daughters of my maternal aunt is married to a man from Bemji. So, he was on the way along with his daughter to receive treatment from Rangshikhar Rinpoche in Gelephu. They were not sure about the Rinpoche's residence. Since I know one of the attendants through a friend, I told my mom to inform them that I have someone there. In that short conversation, my mom arranged for my return journey with them. Upon their request, I accompanied them to Rangshikhar Rinpoche as a translator since both the father and daughter were not fluent in Tshangla. 

That's how I reached Bemji. 

In the beginning, I wasn't sure about the exact location, although I knew it starts somewhere from Bjizam, a bridge a few kilometers from Trongsa towards Thimphu. Of course, I had no reason to worry as I was accompanied by natives. I think it took more than forty-five minutes from the bridge point to reach Bemji, which is 17 km away. It was a dark and foggy ride that prevented me from enjoying the new scenery. The only thing I could notice was the light in each household in the distance.

The next morning, I tried looking around, but the foggy weather still veiled the villages. I waited for the next few hours to get a clear view.

Now, as I checked online, I came to know more about Bemji, its religious significance, and the stories of deities.

I asked my in-law to share anything with me, and he shared some interesting stories about Muktse, the protecting deity, and other stories that I forgot. In the olden days, Muktse would roam freely amongst humans. Many women would give birth to his illegitimate children. While some children misused their physical strength, others benefited the community. One notable figure we have heard of is Garp Lungi Khorlo—he became a postman of Trongsa Poenlop for his unmatched speed. Muktse Phodrang can be seen from the school in the distance, overlooking the villages.

A few minutes from the primary school, there's a three-story traditional house known as Bonbji Choje Naktsang. According to one tradition, Bemji is actually a mispronunciation of Bonbji, which means 'inheritors of Bön.' It is said that the illegitimate son of King Trisong Detsen settled here after being exiled. He was a Bön practitioner, hence the name. Another tradition holds slightly different beliefs but ultimately believes the initial settlement was chosen by a descendant of a Tibetan king.

After walking a few steps down, there's another two-story house called Kanjur Lhakhang. I was told that the Kanjur was first received by the people of Kuenga Rabten from Tibet and kept there, with the commitment to recite it once every year. However, people couldn't continue after a few years, so it was brought to a source of Mangdi River after discussions among concerned authorities. Kanjur recitation is still continued every year by the people of Bemji. Monks from Kharchu Monastery have voluntarily gone there upon the villagers' request in the last few years, starting from the 15th day of the first Tibetan month.

Then I went for another 20-minute ride to Dokseyphel Goenpa in the north.

Dokseyphel Goenpa 

The next day, I began my journey towards Bumthang. I hitched a ride in four vehicles until I reached my destination.

Visited home in Gelephu

Journey 

After four long years in Bumthang I made myself to southern foothills along with brother and family to meet our only mother. Moreover it is better to be in the south during cold season and I've always wanted to go there for a short break. I woke up at 3:00 am to begin my morning chant and get ready for the departure after an hour. However we were late by one hour when we started our journey (5:00 am.) Our vehicle roared through the silent Chamkhar town and then vanished into the Garpang pines. It was a marvelous ride in the early morning especially when there’s no ice and snow.

Newly paved road between Serzhong—Tareythang highway.

We reached Trongsa when the sun rays has already fallen on the mountain peaks. After refueling the diesel our journey continued until we reached a roadside canopy at Koshala. We unpacked our tea and snacks during a short break. But the motion sickness didn't let us eat and drink peacefully. It hardly occurs to me with certain type of vehicle. Amongst all niece had a bad suffering; we had to stop several times in between. 

Although my brother and I stay nearby we hardly get time to talk. This trip was worth as we could share our opinions otherwise our information passes down through second and third person.

I was surprised when we reached home at 2:30 pm. The memory’s of traveling late in the night in the bus is unforgettable. Those days we had to travel more than 16 hours to reach Gelephu from Trongsa/Bumthang. We didn't have any choice than boarding bus. Finding a lodge in the late hours was another burden. Nowadays it isn't issue even if you don't have personal vehicle. 

After reaching home I was surprised by some of the changes. Of course positive changes like upgrading of Norbuling Higher Secondary, black top road till Tareythang, most houses are covered by betel nut trees, number of concrete houses have increased, apart from bus there's taxi and the shooting of land prices , all this factors have helped people’s living standards to improve as well. 

Sansari Bazaar 

Betel nut trees 

I am not satisfied with Sansarey Bazaar, we have seen this old colony since our childhood days and is still as it was long time ago. I wish if concern authority could help develop this old place to become a proper business market with proper infrastructures. The place does have a better scope. 

Dadgari Bazaar

If you happened to be in Gelephu, Dadgari is a must visit Thursday market in Assam where hundreds of people come and buy goods. I wanted to visit and it truly became wish-fulfiling this year after pandemic. I bought some of the things at a cheaper price which would cost twice or even thrice in Bumthang. People often down look Dadgari products without knowing that some of the expensive shops claiming their products as branded are actually being supplied from there. Of course you can't deny the fact that inferior products are supplied abundantly considering the lower income customers. 

Rickshaw drivers waiting for the customers

Vegetable seller's waiting for BONI buyer in the early morning. 

The price for this product is much cheaper and they're known for lasting as well. 

By the way if you're not tough there are people desperately wanting to take advantage of your weakness. For example, a day before the departure from Gelephu to Trongsa I went to buy spectacle in Dadgari, market adjacent to Bhutan gate, upon the suggestion from a friend. I asked the optical owner to show me the best quality, he showed me and was trying to convince me how good it looks on me and that I must go for that. If you've done shopping in Indian markets then you would know how cost prices are negotiated. They'll ask you double the price initially and it will go down half or more when it reaches your hand. The guy scammed me and I paid huge amount for the spectacles. I was aware and I let it go the way he wanted. 

Gelephu town 

I loitered myself in the town while remembering: 

As a young boy I used to come to this town just to watch movies with friends and sleep in the hotel room which would cost less than 150 ngultrum per night. I vivid five/six people in a single room, two bedded rarely, watching TV and adult movies on the DVD that was rented from a shop. 

An old cinema hall area is converted into park

This building has different shops

On one incident I ate THUKPA from a hotel but I didn't pay. It was not because of empty pockets, I had enough to cash, it could be some childish temptations to escape the life time opportunity of eating free of cost. 

One winter I went to Gelephu Tshechu with just fifteen ngultrum, I was fond of toy cars willing to do anything if I am to get that, so I bought an army jeep with the amount and returned home without even entering the Tali Dratsang.

I walked alone remembering all those bygone memories thinking how we might react if we were to reunite.

Remembering the day when I saw first bicycle

Riding this kind of cycle after so many years

I was barely 9 years old when I saw a bicycle for the first time in Samdrupjongkhar town more than 20 years ago. Although my memory’s couldn't store everything, I can still remember how I felt when I saw a man wearing a dark complexion riding and ringing a bell along the roads: I wondered how bicycles could produce such a melodious sound when there’s obstacles in the front. Later did I know those dark complexions were our neighbor Indians. It was completely different experience for a boy who came all the way from remote village where he had seen nothing but humans, some domesticated and wild animals. 

Few years later I could ride bicycles like the one I saw that once made me wondered. Even to these days— whenever I come across bicycle—the one that is mostly used by middle class Indians—which we call it MECHEY CYCLE—it reminds me of my narration thereof.