Monk travelled; wrong journey, right lesson

I have travelled to three A categorised town but I'm going to narrate only Gelephu-Phuntsholing journey. I'm somehow obliged to share here this journey for I've gone through such adventurous. Some may call it unlucky day. Whatever you may call, I've been through hardship and this has never happened to me before.

Before I begin my narration, let me tell you that this is not intended to any people or organisations. Everything that I express is from my own point of view. It is a higgledy-piggledy diary.

I reached my home town, Gelephu, eight days before I cancelled my journey to Trongsa on 28th January 2019. Although it takes only half an hour from Trongsa to Bumthang, I was desiring much better transport service and also conscious about unseen risks especially vehicle related. I paid a sum of Nu.250/- for the ticket. It all started from my desire to explore self by travelling. One day before I cancelled my journey, a friend from Phuntsholing had sent me a voice message in Wechat. He has dropped me a message asking my route while returning Bumthang. Immediately I planned to go from Phuntsholing to Bumthang. So I insisted him to book a ticket and he did as per my insistence. I was told that he booked Phuntsholing to Mongar since there wasn't Phuntsholing to Bumthang bus. I felt happy since the bus would pass Phuntsholing-Thimphu-Wangdue-Trongsa-Bumthang before reaching Mongar. Gladly, I waited to go Phuntsholing on 29th and reach Bumthang directly.

On 29th morning, my mother woke up early as usual and also woke me. Since there was preaching by Sangay Ngenpa Rinpoche at Gelephu public ground, many people travelled by bus and attended the sacred teaching everyday. I too adjusted in that 6:30 a.m. bus & travelled with them till bus station where I luckily managed to get bus of 8:30 a.m. to Phuntsholing. I was one hour ahead of departure but patiently waited. The driver and other passenger have already got inside the bus when I noticed. Bus looked appealing but smaller in size than other buses I've seen. I didn't (and don't) know if it has any name but never bothered to ask anyone. I too went inside. Our bus driver ignited the engine. As is the trend nowadays, I too sent text to my close friends informing that I was moving. They wished me happy journey and I wished them happy stay. Unlike other buses, it was much more comfortable. Somehow my mind was uncomfortable with the bus but I did not took it seriously. I started doubting whether the bus would manage to reach our destiny because there was uncomfortable feeling. As expected bus stopped after traveling for about 1 hour from the station. I felt it to be a planned drive to sell tickets; in the first driver was talking to his friend about hand-break malfunction and later we saw the plastic of the roof rack was not tied tightly as it required proper arrangement just after about 35 minutes drive. Our bus driver who was dressed like a (Nepali) Kollywood villain slowly went outside with two hands put into his front jeans pocket. I heard people murmur outside bus about the broken spring while some were cursing that they shouldn't have booked the ticket. Few minutes later some passenger started taking their luggage from the rack and went into another bus which was parked behind ours. After that driver also confirmed rest of us to adjust in that bus till Shyamthaibhari and adjust in Samdrup Jongkhar bus after that. All except one remained to come in 10:00 a.m. bus. I haven't travelled in crowded Indian buses and trains but realised in that bus after travelling for one and half hour standing with assamese friends till Shyamthaibhari. We reached at exact junction where Bhutanese buses stops for the lunch at Hotel Druk and it was 11:40 a.m. by then. I ate rice with dhal because there were many passengers and the orders were not heard. I told waiters to give me any vegetarian curry. Everyone that I told nodded their head but never returned with my curry. Only I could hear was non veg items repeatedly announcing from table to table “shi-ken, phak-sha, pork, maa-sh-li, .......nga.....nga....shi-kan,.......”

Hotel Druk

The voice faded away and started again and again. I did not heard even a single person asking veg curry though a man in the counter was repeatedly telling to some of the pretty young girls, though only once, the list of veg items.

I doubted whether they were really vegetarian or were literally trying to draw attention but resorted to chicken curry after sitting in the last corner table without anybody's notice? Believe me I wasn't noticing them, it was what I heard and started to imagine when I did not get curry for myself. At least there should have been, “Sholo........ema-da-shi, mixed veg, alu sabji.......” and so on if there were vegetarian other than me. Any ways I paid a sum of Nu.50/- only and told him that I didn't get any veg curry. He felt sorry for me. If there's next time I'm going to taste Bhutanese curry from Indians kitchen. The moment I came outside from the hotel, another bus, I suppose from Samdrup Jongkhar or Nganglam  was also parked in front of hotel.

Bus that I travelled

Since I don't have mechanical background it is difficult to point out faulty machine but bus driver was waiting for the experienced local mechanics. Just next to it was another bus with punctured tyre until I went close enough and identified it was ours. Almost every bus I saw were not in good condition, if that's the right term to describe. After that some of the standing passengers from our bus were moved to other buses. We were few of us standing! After standing for almost 3 hours continuously, my legs started to ache, my shin too was giving me a different pain. I even felt sleepy. Still I had no choice but to stand and pretend with smile. Fake smile, isn't it? The bus stopped in one of the jungle area for us to go and do private things. I couldn't step properly after standing long hours. Few minutes later, second bus from Samdrup Jongkhar parked behind us and offered interested one's to move towards his bus. I enquired about the empty seat but he told me that there was a seat on engine box. What do I need more than this? I thought. I went and sat on the engine box along with one woman and her little son. It was relaxing moment for rest one hour journey till bus station. That's how I changed three bus in one journey.

Other bus 

Most interesting story is here. I went to my friend's house near Midpoint Hotel which is a few minutes drive only. He is Pema Dorji to whom we call Nalex, who was also responsible for booking a ticket and is a friend since college days. Though he never fails to pick-up me,  that afternoon due to unavoidable situation I had to use taxi. He greeted me and instantly handed a ticket because he has a habit of forgetting things quickly. I asked him, “North or south?” he looked at me quizzically and said, “What?” I read ticket and nodded myself. “What if the bus travel from Samdrup Jongkhar to Mongar?” The moment I said, I started to doubt too. Even he wasn't sure. He looked around and told his wife once more the same thing I told him. She responded that it would go from Bumthang to Mongar. Bus fare was Nu.575/- and departure time was 5:30 a.m. with thirty minutes reporting time before departing. I set an alarm and slept around 11:00 p.m. I even asked one of my friends, Jamyang Tashi Yangki, to woke me (by calling) as I couldn't trust my alarm.

At 4:14 a.m. Yangki called me. Upon reaching a bus station I could see only big buses not even a single coaster bus. I started to doubt that the bus ticket that I bought might travel from south, I mean Indian highways. So I enquired one of the passenger and got confirmation about the route I'll have to take with the ticket I'd in my hand. I smiled but couldn't laughed out loud in such situation. I looked at Nalex grinning. Then two of us tried to sell tickets but in vain. With tickets in my hand, I was helpless passenger for the first time. Isn't that silly? Of course it was silly. More than that it may sound foolish to some. But I've learned so many through this little journey. It gave me experience.

If there is purpose in this journey, it would be to narrate story with you all.

Chasing happiness

Circumambulating at Jambay Lhakhang 

What is happiness? This is one of the toughest question. I do not know how to define this subject. When I was a child getting toy was happiness. But I realised that happiness lasted for a short moment and then that happiness is a culprit breeding unhappiness. Similarly when I do not get what I want, unhappiness is there but it fades away slowly. In case I'm confusing, just understand that nothing lasts at the end. But it is best in living a happy life. How do I get happiness? Confusing! I was told that happiness is a choice. How do I go about choosing happiness? Someone even reassured that happiness is acceptance. What should I accept in life? Life is easy to think but not when one has to tackle practically and individually. I love life as dear as you all love yours. To be honest, I haven't found a thing called happiness so far, not at all, wherever I've reached in this life. Or shall I wait till I'm old? 

I will change the old me

I do not know how to begin and from where to begin. Today is the seventh of 365 days and I'm still confused about my new resolution. Many of us were excited and many have adopted at least some kind of changes with new year. On the other hand there shall be a group of people who might be still in 2018, just like I am. 

Confused! But I think every moment is new and deserves new changes. I am also sure there is change, consistently occurring, every moment of our life. 

Nevertheless let me reflect seven days back and see how things have changed before I preplan my future for which I'll also be guilty, because of impermanence, if I do not get chance to execute. 

I rewind my memory, sadly not time, 7 days back from present. I can hardly recollect those gone moments. Those moments of wondrous in my little yet self-acclaimed bigger life. Of course last year began with same kind of celebration with an expectation that everything will be fine. To tell you: everything wasn't fine, it was just perfect in its own way. Like some of you, I was busy trying to escape any harmful situation. Even tried to avoid a little scratch on MY body. Hid everything dark and exposed a bright side, even if it was not worthy. With red robe, It was a perfect tool to help me hide my true self. No need of artificial help to fake kindness, love, generosity, compassion & so on when I'd a red robe. Ordained as monk, wearing red robe, I am socially categorised into a being who've sacrificed for sentient beings. And I was literally taking a refuge in such a treatment, enjoying ill-gotten-gains. Ups and downs life passes fast. At the end of a day what is counted? 

I am good at borrowing things 'coz there is nothing I own it myself. Nothing. Whether Socrates said it or not, as is my habit, today too, I would like to borrow a beautiful line "don't talk of peace and love when you have a dead animal on your plate". Relating to quote thereof, ‘let me not talk of adopting a new changes when I've a bunches of undone and uncleaned old in me.’

If ever I need to change, it is not by bringing in new but by sorting out old dirty habits. For me that is a change too.

11.11.11: Happy Birthday My King

Jigme Singye Wangchuck
འཇིགས་མེད་སེང་གེ་དབང་ཕྱུག

I'm a proud Bhutanese because of my King who is the pillar of our nation. I am sure, definitely, my praise is not going to justify even smallest achievement amongst HIS boundless deeds. Never will I, ever in my life, be able to express in writings. You may not believe me if I say I haven't seen K4 but that's the fact. I never had an opportunity to see HIM giving a live speech neither mingling in a crowd. Thanks to advancement in technology, I watched and listened to HIS visionary speeches in different occasions. Let alone me, world is the witness to appreciate what an image His Majesty earned for Bhutan. Yes it is, more or less a cliché ‘Gross National Happiness’; the concept that is versatile in nature. 

I grew up appreciating HIS legendary work. No matter what, I will not be able to reach YOUR heights but I'll take little steps and impersonate your boddhisatva path. King of the kings are Dharma King. Thank you for being a true Dharma King.

Let Bhutan cherish YOUR presence eternally.

Long live!

Note: 11.11.11

a) 11 is a date i.e. 11th day of the month.
b) 11 is a month i.e. November.
c) 11 is year i.e. 2018 (2+0+1+8=11).

First chilling morning of the coming winter

Early sun rays melts the frost

Around 5:13 a.m. I was awaken through my dream that I forgot the moment I knew it was a dream. It was extremely cold morning I’ve ever experienced this year and it is a sign that winter has approached very close. As I couldn't belief, I checked window and door but found them shut. Then I realised from where chilling wind entered my room; it was from the hole of a wall. It is apparent to say that cold weather holds you to stay with blankets. My likeness to stay with warm clothes in Bumthang has began today and soon it will be a much talked topic in the nearby vicinity. There will be this cliché ‘It is cold’ in everybody's mouth. I am also sure betelnuts, betel pepper and lime will have more demands in the business market. Maybe it is an opportunity for business operators such as doma sellers to contribute in the business growth? Pun not intended. 

Early sunrise around 8:30 a.m. 

Being a selfish me, I've shifted my desire from one after another in search of good, than to better and than to best and so on and on. I complain too much; when I'm in cold and when I'm in hot. For this reason I'm neither fish nor fowl. Where do I find my aspired place? Where? 

Do I need to thank Sun for warming or won't it burn me other day? I'm afraid. 

World through the eyes of a child

With Micky Mouse comic although she do not know how to read.

I've a beautiful, smart and talkative niece. Her name Chimi Eden was given by my guru, Kyabje Namkhai Nyingpo Rinpoche. She's only four years old. She never makes me feel bore. Whenever she sees me, she greets me, “Kuzu Zangpo la Aku,” and then she would come closer to shake hand. Then she would put me so many questions. I've to be clever enough to defend otherwise she will keep on asking one after another. She is never tired of inquiring anything. Once I read in an article where psychologist have highlighted parents to give enough time to child during their early years. It is a crucial stage of learning for them. Bad environment or bad influence may help them become aggressive and otherwise. I've been keeping myself at par with the aforementioned  findings whenever I meet children. As I was saying about Chimi, let me share one of the incident with her that made me to rethink time and again.

Chimi and I were washing kitchen utensils. We were only three of us at home including her eldest brother. As usual she was asking me many thing and in between I was also actively involving her do the washing. Since I've a backache, I often stretch and ease my stiff muscles. That time too I erected my back, twisted my neck and ultimately muttered, “a-la-la-la Shi-lay-la Jung.” She paused her busy hand and looked quzzically at me. She then said, “Aku, we will die even having a backache?” It prompted me to ask about death instead of answering her. 

“What is dying?” Said I.

“Aku, you don't know?” Said she, “It is like sleeping.”

Like sleeping, I thought. Of course we go for a longer sleep. Wow feeling aroused in me. “Are you afraid of dying?”

“Obviously I'm afraid,” She replied, “are you not?”

“Why?” Said I.

She was trying to find something in her head and then reassured herself by asking me. “Aku, if there is lots of blood coming out, you will die. “ she said and continued, “are you not going to get scared if blood oozes from your body?”

“Oh, we will die only if blood comes out?” I rephrased the line.

“Yes.” She confidently said.

“Chimi, who taught you all this things?” I said.

“Aku my ama told me.” She adorably said this line.

To check her, I couldn't hold myself from creating lots of question in my head but she was not willing to respond to every question. We know how scared children's are just when they see blood, even if it comes out of their scratched skin. For them world is defined by whoever is around them. Chimi is scared of death but she don't know why? Seeing a red blood Chimi gets afraid so much so that she finds death in it.  Maybe we carry the experience of death from our past lives though it is difficult to recollect. I'm sure Chimi will come to ķnow life more deeper as and when she enters the different stages of life. I hope that she'll also know about birth and death better than her mother’s words. The ultimate goal of us is to improve in life eventually reaching a desired goal.

Beautifully Blessed Bumthang

I presume, Bumthang receives the highest number of Tshechu compared to other districts in a year. It is blessed by a great Indian saint Guru Padmasambhava in 747 A.D.  Following the footsteps of Guru Rinpoche many Buddhist scholars have tried to preserve and promote for the benefit of sentient beings. I have known Bumthang for two things since my early teenage. I knew from books and orally heard that Bumthang is a place where you'll find lots of sacred Buddhist temples in every direction. Another story is, I heard, there used to be lots of evil spirits (demon and witches). I was eager to visit temples/monasteries and hear more about evil beings but reluctant as well.

Chamkhar Valley in the evening

Just stepping in this beautiful Bumthang valley gave me a feeling where many would not be able to express. The energy was so refreshing that I always wanted to spent the rest of my life in this valley. Maybe my prayer was heard by almighty above or I already had a connection from my past karma. I consider myself a fortunate human for getting rarest opportunity to live with soothing energy in so called Bumpa: holy water vessel, thang: plain valley. Beside religiously adorned beauty, Bumthang is also known for the production of best leaders in the history. Since I'm not a good historian, I'm sorry, I've to wind up apolitical histories.

More importantly I'm here to share about local festivals which are in pipeline especially at the end of summer's season. Paedtsheling Goenpa hosts the first and this year it fell on early June. After three months Tamzhing Phala Choedpa coincides with Thimphu Tshechu which is followed by Thangbi, I don't know much of the significance but I have been always able to present at least a day in all the Tshechus.

With atsara at Paedtsheling Goenpa on 3rd June 2018

Paedtsheling is more than half an hours drive from chamkhar bazaar but road condition is worst during summer. Taxi fare was Nu. 300/- per head. There is another option for those interested one's, walking can take at least two hours.

Tamzhing last day on 21st Sept 2018

Tamzhing is 3 km away from chamkhar bazaar. Local people says, it is the only monastery lasted for more than five hundred years free from natural disasters. During the last day there will be a blessing for the public. First will be a blessing known as pakpa wang, in which a sacks stitched of leather which is of course filled with sacred treasure, zung as in buddhist term, is hit at the back and it is believed to clear one's path also washing away negativity. Next is to receive a blessing from a statue of Tshepamey which is of course sculpted by Tertoen Pema Lingpa himself.

Thangbi Mae-wang on 24th Sept 2018

Mae-wang is a fire blessing ceremony and is also the main highlight at Thangbi Tshechu. It is risky if not careful. Keep alert when people rushes to cross the blazing fire; to escape stempede. It is advisable not to rush although many energised will be eager to try. Many Monastry have mae-wang but unlike Thangbi they do it in the night, which I observed is more riskier.
Thangbi is almost 30 minutes drive from Chamkhar. From Kurjey Lhakhang the road is unpaved.

Jakar Tshechu is interesting to watch in a small courtyard. I don't know much about Jakar Tshechu but courtyard is congested which can accommodate less number of people. I had to stand and watch the dance. Nevertheless Jakar dzon is beautifully built. To know more one will have to go through history. The gigantic dzong is located overlooking Chamkhar.

19th Oct 2018

Jambay Lhakhang is the oldest monastery in Bhutan and it is believed to have been built by Songtsen Gompo of Tibet before Guru's arrival. But recent researchers believe that the construction of Jambay Lhakhang began even before Songtsen Gompo by the locality. I can't guarantee the reliability in information. Maybe proper research is required. Nevertheless there's one unique chham (dance) performed during late night. It's known as Ter-Chham or naked dance.
Jambay Lhakhang is 10 minutes drive from Chamkhar.

P.s. Tshechu I mentioned is only under Chhokhor Gewog. There are several monasteries which are under other three gewogs.