I ventured into Bonbji—the place of bõn

I never thought I would visit Bemji, one of the remote villages under Nubi gewog in Trongsa. It was only after reaching there and searching online that I learned more about that place.

Nephew Chokden was my guide when I visited Naktsang,  with Kanjur Lhakhang seen in the background. 

Before I share with you the historical significance, let me explain how I reached there.

One of the daughters of my maternal aunt is married to a man from Bemji. So, he was on the way along with his daughter to receive treatment from Rangshikhar Rinpoche in Gelephu. They were not sure about the Rinpoche's residence. Since I know one of the attendants through a friend, I told my mom to inform them that I have someone there. In that short conversation, my mom arranged for my return journey with them. Upon their request, I accompanied them to Rangshikhar Rinpoche as a translator since both the father and daughter were not fluent in Tshangla. 

That's how I reached Bemji. 

In the beginning, I wasn't sure about the exact location, although I knew it starts somewhere from Bjizam, a bridge a few kilometers from Trongsa towards Thimphu. Of course, I had no reason to worry as I was accompanied by natives. I think it took more than forty-five minutes from the bridge point to reach Bemji, which is 17 km away. It was a dark and foggy ride that prevented me from enjoying the new scenery. The only thing I could notice was the light in each household in the distance.

The next morning, I tried looking around, but the foggy weather still veiled the villages. I waited for the next few hours to get a clear view.

Now, as I checked online, I came to know more about Bemji, its religious significance, and the stories of deities.

I asked my in-law to share anything with me, and he shared some interesting stories about Muktse, the protecting deity, and other stories that I forgot. In the olden days, Muktse would roam freely amongst humans. Many women would give birth to his illegitimate children. While some children misused their physical strength, others benefited the community. One notable figure we have heard of is Garp Lungi Khorlo—he became a postman of Trongsa Poenlop for his unmatched speed. Muktse Phodrang can be seen from the school in the distance, overlooking the villages.

A few minutes from the primary school, there's a three-story traditional house known as Bonbji Choje Naktsang. According to one tradition, Bemji is actually a mispronunciation of Bonbji, which means 'inheritors of Bön.' It is said that the illegitimate son of King Trisong Detsen settled here after being exiled. He was a Bön practitioner, hence the name. Another tradition holds slightly different beliefs but ultimately believes the initial settlement was chosen by a descendant of a Tibetan king.

After walking a few steps down, there's another two-story house called Kanjur Lhakhang. I was told that the Kanjur was first received by the people of Kuenga Rabten from Tibet and kept there, with the commitment to recite it once every year. However, people couldn't continue after a few years, so it was brought to a source of Mangdi River after discussions among concerned authorities. Kanjur recitation is still continued every year by the people of Bemji. Monks from Kharchu Monastery have voluntarily gone there upon the villagers' request in the last few years, starting from the 15th day of the first Tibetan month.

Then I went for another 20-minute ride to Dokseyphel Goenpa in the north.

Dokseyphel Goenpa 

The next day, I began my journey towards Bumthang. I hitched a ride in four vehicles until I reached my destination.