Tharpaling Nyekor & Kikiphu Hike

Towards Tharpaling

Tharpaling lies at an elevation of 3600m and is about one hour drive from Chamkhar valley. If you take Lamaigonpa trek, it will be almost 3 hours walk. The taxi fare from Chamkhar to Tharpaling was Nu.1500/- which means Nu.350/- per head. We boarded Wagon R taxi. Also if you trek from Kikila it may take 4 hours roughly. Likewise there are several routes to reach Tharpaling. Our car began at 6:40 a.m. from Chamkhar. As we continued, when we reached Urok, there were herd of cattles supposedly on their winter migration. We stopped to buy milk and cheese. The herder told us that they were leaving for Jo-Durshing, trying to speak in English too, 'bay-lag mo-tain,' which he meant was a black mountain. They were offering us curd and milk but we denied. The cheese was already sold before our arrival so bought milk and continued our drive. Unlike in the past Tharpaling monastery is connected with paved road. The time was 8:07 a.m. when we reached Tharpaling.

Lady herder pouring milk 

Chodra Gonpa

Chodra Gonpa entrance

There are two different accounts to why it is called as Chodra, of course as per the oral history. First story tell's about a dharma being concealed at the cliff by a great Guru Rinpoche. Which literally means Cho-dharma and dra-cliff. Second story goes little different. It is said that a person who have cleansed off their negative karma can hear the sound of dharma from the cliff upon listening closely. That's why the name Cho-dharma and dra-sound is given. However I'm not really sure since I didn't get the written information. Yet I believed what I'm being told by the kungyer as it seems relevant in both the case. Folks, this is not the only story about Chodra. There are many interesting stories one will come across if you happen to visit. For some reason I'm not going to share the stories in details. It is better to visit once in your lifetime.

Towards the left of a monastery there are many sacred nye. We covered the entire sacred places. It was full of fun and blessing at the most.

View of a place where Drasung Lhatso is located

One interesting story tells that the Longchenpa had entrusted his horse to adrung, in charge of the horse. However Locals of Domkhar complained that their wheat crop in Pangri was destroyed by his horse. It was obvious of such incident since Longchen did not have grazing land. Land of Domkharpa, Urokpa and Gyalsapa surrounded Samling. Anyways to know the allegations, one morning, without the notice, Longchen struck the end of thread ball on the back of adrung’s attire using needle, the thread ball began to unravel until it stopped.  Then Longchen followed the thread that didn't lead towards horse but lake above Urok known as Shawabumpai Tsho. He saw many ritual objects and instruments displayed at lakeshore while adrung was swimming. Longchen instantly recognized that his adrung was not a man but Rahula who was the protector of Nyingma. When Longchen unknowingly stepped on some dry leaves, adrung threw all objects into the lake on hearing the rustling sound. All Longchen could get was a cymbal. Today the same cymbal is kept in Samling as a ter. Prostrating before Rahula, Longchen explained that he had never known the true identity of his adrung. The lake came to be known as Drasung Latsho. 
                 -From Oral construction of Exile life and Times of Kunkhyen Longchen Rabjam in Bumthang by Dorji Penjore.

Drasung Lhatso

We met Ani who spends most of her time meditating at Chodra Gonpa. She was so helpful that she even guided us towards the lake and it was her who narrated to me the story about Drasung Tsho but little different than the one I shared above after proper research. Around 10:50 a.m. we’d tea at their monastery guest room. (Of course we served our own tea that we carried with us.) Anyhow I'm thankful to Ani for her kind help. We would have loved to spend a night at Chodra after knowing the significance and also hospitality we received,  unfortunately we had to return. Next time!

Another sacred is to get a blessings from Nyushul Khenpo’s kudung chorten which is a few minutes walk above Chodra.

Just above Longchen Zhugthri, my friends

Kitiphu hike

After walking about 15 minutes from Chodra we came to another significant place. It is known as Longchen Zhugthri in which he spent most of the time composing and writing Longchen Dzod Dun. (Many believes Dzod Dun was composed and completed at Gangri Thoedkar in Tibet)

Longchen Zhugthri

Kikiphu trail starts from Zhugthri. Kikiphu lies at 4000m above sea level.  Therefore we were all excited. Precisely I was eager although I do not consider myself a good mountain climber. Since it was 12:38 p.m. we decided to take lunch at first base. By the way our lunch was packed from Welcome Hotel in Chamkhar. Eating in a mountain top is something I really enjoy. It was a delicious lunch.

When we were about to have lunch

Since we live in a digital world, we were taking pictures whenever we felt like, and at the most, simply hypnotized by the beauty of the mountain slopes, clouds and aroma of balu-sulu. It took us almost 2 hours to reach the  top because we walked and talked prolonging our journey. Otherwise I am sure it won't take more than hour. When you reach at the top it is as if touching the sky with your head. Entire Bumthang valley is seen and even Gangkar Punsum with blanketed snow at this time of a year. I wished if I had binoculars. Carry it, if you've.

At the back is seen Kikiphu

Kikiphu is also a home to some of the endangered wild animals. We spotted monal pheasant and other pheasant species. Also in the recent times tiger was seen in the Kikiphu region. We saw pooh but not sure of what animals although my instinct says it belong to a carnivores. 

Entire Chamkhar valley and Kharchu at the tip of finger 

Upon reaching the summit we offered smoke and prayers to appease the deities. How happy it was to go to the top of a mountain and do several wish fulfilling activities. I'm, no more cliché, simply  mesmerized.

Overlooking Chamkhar valley

Offering smoke and prayer at the summit of Kikiphu 

Returning 

Our initial plan was to take a Lamai Gonpa route. Since we missed to visit Tharpaling and other important sacred sites in the morning, we decided to take the same route through Chumey valley. It was already 4:30 p.m. when we reached the base of the mountain. And also it was getting dark. However we rushed to Tharpaling monastery but we couldn't locate even after asking an old man who was circumambulating nearby monastery. Later only did we saw the real Tharpaling monastery but it was late by that time. We had already reached other side of the road. I prayed, I'll come again.

Four of us hurried towards Trongsa-Bumthang highway when lo, and behold! short cut route messed us. By that time it was dark and using mobile flash light. To ease the confusion, I checked my cell phone and used google maps. Since none of us read google maps professionally it was  challenging. Still it was useful for direction purpose, though. One good thing, as per maps, was we were heading Samling but who would dare to allow us see ter (mentioned in the story above) at such an odd hours? Nevertheless we never talked anything than reaching the highway. To minimise risk we avoided short cut route and walked all the way from Samling village road to Urok-Gyalsa. It was not a pitch dark due to moon so walking in such serene atmosphere added another story in my diary. Such a raw experience for me. When we hit the highway, hardly, there was any movement of vehicle although it was only 7 o'clock. We thought to hitchhike till Chamkhar otherwise find taxi from the nearby house. After failing to get hitchhike, I called my sister, whose husband is a teacher at Chumey to manage taxi. Sometimes later brother-in-law lifted us till taxi driver's home and from there we reserved till Chamkhar. After dinner we reached monastery around 9:45 p.m. With so much body ache and also satisfaction, I sighed with relief.

Visiting Tharpaling, we missed to visit the main Tharpaling monastery. Perhaps it is another call for us?