Kunzangdra Nyekor and a short visit to Ogyen Choling

Kunzangdra 

Walking towards kunzangdra

Pema Lingpa's personal cottage used as Goenkhang to this day is first seen upon reaching the base. 

On 20th October we planned to go Kunzangdra & perhaps the last pilgrimage of the year. This time we were six of us who were genuinely interested. We decided to hire a taxi for whole day so that we can visit some other places too. After good negotiation with Mr. Buda Man Tamang my friends have fixed seven seater Eeco car. We were to depart at 7:00 a.m. from Chamkhar. He had agreed to take us at Nu.2500/- although it may not be similar with the other cabs. The very next day when I met our taxi driver, I knew he would be a jolly person because he was totally outgoing; maybe in his early forties. I was in the front seat simply comforting ourselves with the formal conversations and later, once we knew more closely, it would be any kind of talks. At an average speed, we reached Drangchel village at 8:30 a.m. and from there feeder road took us at least ten minutes till the end of road point. After parking our taxi, we walked for 30mins and finally reached our destiny.

Glimpse of Wangkhang or main temple is seen at the back

Kunzangdra literally means Kun-all, zang-good and dra-cliff. Just like four other dras, Kunzangdra is also blessed by Guru Rinpoche but it was native Bhutanese saint in 1488 as per the prophecy, one of the five treasure discoverers, Terton Pema Lingpa who founded the monastery. Legend has it that Pema Lingpa saw Kuntu Zangpo (Samantabhadra), one of the primordial Buddhas, once while gazing up from his birth place Chel; the name Kunzangdra actually is a derivation of the incident. Later sixth Namkhai Nyingpo (Akashagarbha) too visited and did many religious conducts like meditation and prayers.

Khandro Lhakhang built by hundred thousand khandoms and guardian deities

Kunzangdra has three important temples. The main and oldest temple, in the middle, known as Wangkhang, was built by Pema Lingpa. It houses three important statues, Amitabha (left), Chuchezhey (middle) and Guru Nangsi Zilyon (on the right side of shrine). All three statues were brought from Pema Lingpa’s Mani Gonpa which is located below Kunzangdra in the south-west direction. Apart from this three statues temple also has a statue of sixth Namkhai Nyingpo, one of the heart son amongst 25 disciples of Guru Rinpoche. (Please read about sixth Namkhai Nyingpo in Kunzangdra if you come across any article to enlighten more.) On the way to Khandro Lhakhang there are many stories related to chorten, trees, drupchu, cliffs etc. Khandro Lhakhang was founded by Pema Lingpa’s consort on the same place where Khandro Yeshey Tshogyal is believed to have mediated. According to the mythology, hundred thousand khandoms (dakinis)  constructed the base and rest by guardian deities under the supervision of Drasung Rahula. The Lhakhang has a self speaking statue of Pema Lingpa made by himself, statue of Chenrizig (Avalokiteshvara) and Dorji Phagmo (Vajravarahi). Also there are Pema Lingpa’s footprints in woodblock and stone anvil marking that he was signing off from worldly possessions. Third temple houses Goenkhang (santum) which used to be once Pema Lingpa’s living cottage. Gonpo Maning Nagpo (Mahakala’s emanation) is the main deity and it is dedicated to him and a self spoken statue of Pema Lingpa too is seen. We wanted to visit a cave above the monastery which is also used as meditation house since to this day. I was told that there are sacred nye but kungnyer didn't allow us since village people belief it will bring bad to the vicinity. It is allowed only after the completion of harvesting season which falls after 15th of ninth month of Tibetan calender. There are many sacred stories in the surroundings but we were not really bothered hoping and praying that we will visit next time.

Ogyen Choling

It was 10:00 a.m. when we returned from Kunzangdra monastery. We had enough time and  therefore decided to visit Ogyen Choling Museum. It was first time visit for all except our taxi driver. It takes around 15 minutes to reach museum from Khangrab school road divergent point.

Ogyen Choling villagers busy with their work after harvest

The history of Ogyen Choling first dates back to the visit of great Dzogchen ‘school of great perfection’ master Longchen Rabjam from Tibet. Longchen decided to choose the place for meditation purpose because when he looked from the valley, panoramically, Ogyen Choling resembled the head of an elephant. In Buddhism elephant is venerated, therefore, Longchen too felt the positive outcome in the future if he choose the location for his centre. We walked few hundred metres above the present Ogyen Choling, climbing towards the crown of an elephant which to this day is revered as Longchen’s meditation cave. It was unlucky for us since there was a hermit on the exact cave, mediating. We had to retreat our move from the nearby cave that is elongated. 

After the blessing of Longchen Rabjam the place later became centre of great Tibetan treasure discoverer Dorji Lingpa. Today there is a temple adjacent to Ogyen Choling museum which houses the statues of Dorji Lingpa and other great boddhisatvas. Later the descendent of Dorji Lingpa were to uphold the religious traditions, choeju, and genealogical lineage, dungju. They were considered religious nobility known as ‘lama choeju’ that means a highly respected family. Tsokye Dorji was the notable figure and the fifteen generation descendent of Dorji Lingpa who became a governor of Trongsa. Today Azhi Kunzang Choden who have authored quite a number of books resides at Ogyen Choling. Azhi Kunzang Choden is the twentieth generation descendent of the noble lineage. 

Welcome

Photograph with Azhi Kunzang Choden 

Museum was formally opened in May 2001 with an aim of preserving and promoting Ogyen Choling as the centre of religion and culture because of its association with the two great Tibetan masters Longchen Rabjam and Dorji Lingpa. Local visitors have to pay Nu.20/- while international visitors have to pay around ten times more than locals (but I am not sure, forgot to ask). Any ways, museum displays around twenty exhibitions and photography is allowed unless you do not touch anything. It is mostly about the 19th and 20th century living conditions of the great family that the museum has for the display. I'm pretty sure it will be of great use for the scholars and students to know what kinds of tools were used in the olden days. Everyday museum receives good number of visitors both from local and international.

A cave where Longchenpa mediated above Ogyen Choling village.

Did you know there are eight lings of Longchen Rabjam in Bhutan? Tharpaling, Shingkhar Dechenling and Tang Ugyencholing in Bumthang, Kunzangling in Lhuntse, Kothang Pemaling (or Rinchenling) and Menlok Kunzangling in Wangdue, Nyenlong Drechagling, and Paro Samtenling. 

It was exactly 1:20 p.m. when we ate lunch at the bank of Tang river. 

On our way back, we decided to visit Zangdo Pelri at Dungmithang. Zangdo Pelri was built under the command of His Majesty the fifth king. It is few minutes drive from the highway. From there one can see Kunzangdra towards north direction. There is sheep farm few hundred metres away from Zangdo Pelri. We came across many sheep grazing and gambolling on our way. Our one day pilgrimage ends here.

I had a successful and breathtaking trip. See you next time.

P.s. I've referred various facebook accounts and Ogyen Choling webpage to gather information.