Shingkhar: The Place of Longchen

Shingkhar Za Phodrang.

This is my fourth time visiting Shingkhar, a village at least a two-hour bus ride from Chamkhar. My first visit was in 2010 when one of my friends, who now coordinates occasional events like Kanjur recitation, invited another school staff member and me on an adventure to hunt matsutake—the rarest mushroom species with high medicinal value. Although we couldn't find any, we managed to persuade some local kids to give us some in exchange for cash.

In the evening, as we were about to leave, I vaguely remember my friend pointing out a monastery below his house. He might have tried to tell me about the monastery but didn't explain its significance to his not-so-religious friend. Apart from the mushroom, I knew very little about Shingkhar.

More than a decade later, I once again visited Shingkhar in 2022, but this time as an ordained monk, curious about everything related to the omniscient one. In that same year, more than a hundred monks were invited, for the first time, to Dechenling Monastery to recite Kanjur. 

This year is our second time. As a Buddhist student, I'm gaining new knowledge about the life of Longchenpa, motivating me to explore the places he had been while in Bumthang.

Every time I come here, I listen to wonderful stories that don't linger in my memory for long. So, I decided to take advantage of recording and sharing them in writing with interested people like you.

There is a man in his early sixties, whose bald head shone brightly, reflecting the light like a polished mirror. His poignant narration kept the crowd silent; the audience was so captivated that you could hear a pin drop; not a single person even coughed.

After clearing his throat and initially stammering, he began, “According to our Shingkhar Lam, it was Za Rahula who settled here before Kunkhyen Longchen. Not so long ago, people settled below the current settlement, in the sloped areas. I don't know why people preferred such places in the olden times, but we can still see the evidence even to this day.

“In this very place, there were trees, and in between was a small grassland; it must have been such a lovely sight. Za chose this meadow as his seat. You have to climb down from this door to the underground hole; some of you might have entered with your Rinpoche. Many attendants have come earlier. Just below this statue of Kunkhyen Himself was a Lha-tsho.

“In those days, people were living in complete darkness; they didn't know much about dharma. Za became their ultimate refuge from then on. However, Kunkhyen traveled from Tharpaling and settled at a place above this monastery on a hilltop, where he meditated most of the time. During that period, many people started to get closer to Kunkhyen. They said that the moment they heard and saw him, they felt like offering something, generating pure devotion that never arose earlier.

“When people said they had someone with similar qualities, Kunkhyen decided to visit their place, wondering who that could be. Upon hearing the news and with utmost reverence, Za Rahula wanted to receive Kunkhyen, who is indeed his own teacher, in a grand ceremony, so he prepared a throne and other necessities at a place above this village that has a shape like a throne. Now you cannot see it because a bulldozer has destroyed it; you could say modern development, but we still call the place Zhukthri.

“After Kunkhyen reached here, He saw a lha-tsho where he ordered Rahula to hide it from villagers as it was not something to be shown openly. As ordered, he covered it with a flat stone so that others couldn't see it. On the top flat stone, Rahula made a throne for Kunkhyen to consecrate a small temple. Although we recently unearthed the throne, this is what we heard from a long time back about the ‘lha-tsho beneath the earth.’ Due to long-term, the throne was covered under the earth. Kuenchen sat on the throne and asked people the name of the place, to which they replied, Shingkhar. So He renamed it Shingkhar Dechenling."

To be continued.....

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The Fading Excitement: My Journey with the Kangyur

I've been busy this whole Vesak month’s weekends, participating in a mission to bring welfare to beings. My contribution has been simple: going from one home to another, reciting the Kangyur, which contains Buddha’s words translated from Sanskrit to Tibetan.

Young monks

Monks reciting 

Last Sunday, even though it wasn’t Vesak month, I had the chance to recite again with the monks from Tamzhing and Trongsa Rabdey at Kurjey Lhakhang. This annual program is usually initiated by a group of contractors, who I believe are ex-monks, during Vesak month. However, due to our tight schedules, they had to postpone it this year.

Monks having porridge/thukpa

Having Paneer Thukpa 

I'm sharing this because seven years ago, I encountered a Kangyur booklet for the first time in this same monastery and for the same cause. I was struck by the size of the paper and the way it was wrapped. Having never seen such a giant book before, I even took a picture and posted it on my Facebook story that day.

During break time

Now, after reciting hundreds of volumes, the initial excitement has faded. I no longer feel the same curiosity or eagerness to recite. Over time, these interests have either vanished completely or diminished significantly. Perhaps it has become such a routine part of my life that the excitement has gone unnoticed.

Bodh Gaya: The Ruins of Nalanda

The distance between Nalanda and Vulture Peak is approximately 15 km; therefore, it didn't take us more than thirty minutes.

From the bus parking, we immediately rushed towards the gate to collect tickets from the counter. Any visitors are charged, but with different prices. While Indians are charged less than outsiders, I was told westerners are charged even higher than that.

Group photo with His Holiness

This is not a new trend in some parts of Indian places where scams are part of their bread. Be careful! Otherwise, there are scammers in auto drivers, taxi drivers, hoteliers, shopkeepers, street hawkers, beggars, even police officers ready to take advantage of innocents and newcomers.

Before coming, I had heard, read, and watched about Nalanda, which is not only the oldest in the world but also the biggest university of its time. I was also told it took three months to raze down the entire university by fire, and millions of books were burnt.

I couldn't believe I was in that particular place where great panditas like Nagarjuna, Shantrakshikta, Chandrakriti, Shanti Deva, Arya Deva, Asanga, Vasubandhu, and so many others had studied. Though there are boards at all the sites written about the events, it is not enough to make you understand. I was even skeptical when pilgrims were listening to guides. I feel it is better not to listen to distorted information. This is because if you listen, you'll pass it on to others; if you don't listen, you'll not get information, but you will not pass false information.

While inspecting some of the sites, our Kyabje Rinpoche arrived. We assembled to receive oral transmission of Manjusrinamasamgiti, the first chapter of Madhyamaka-alam-kara and madhyamakavatara, recited expressions of reverence of panditas, recited Ganachakra or feast gathering, even had debates at the end within monks.

To be continued.....

Bodh Gaya: The Importance of Mindfulness in Travel

I'm sure we've heard "Bodh Gaya" more than any other place's name, and some of us have dreamt of visiting this place for so long. But not everyone is blessed equally, at least if your dream of visiting is still pending.

Mahabodhi Temple

In my case, I was blessed that the monastery bore all the costs for some 300 monks. Sometimes, I feel that what I've achieved can never be compensated for with what I do in this life, though I don't have much to show materially. Yet, I feel the tightness of having a lot!

As soon as we reached Bodh Gaya, one of our friends from Namdroling Monastery received us and brought us to our rented apartment that would be home for the next 13 days. In a season like this, finding a good room with required amenities is competitive. Somehow, Pema managed to get one for the six of us.

In our group, two could neither speak nor understand Hindi, two of course understood and spoke a little, while another two were a bit more advanced. I fell into the third category, which means I was bound to talk and do miscellaneous activities.

Since we reached four days ahead of '35th Nyingma Monlam Chenmo' on the second day, we were informed to reach Vulture Peak, the place in Rajgir which is approximately 75 km away. This meant we were supposed to wake up early in the morning because the bus takes nearly three hours. We missed our 2 a.m. alarm. 

The 22-hour journey the previous day and night on the bus actually made us go deep into sleep. I don't know if it is luck, but something woke me up. I checked my phone to find it was 5:56 a.m. I couldn't believe it, rubbed my eyes, carefully squinted before uttering, “yalama chu tshe khung dewa la!” One of them quickly responded, “Hung? Mangi du ko.” I showed him my phone, “5:56 dewa la.” By that time, all hurried from their mattresses and rushed to their belongings.

Many of our friends had called us on messenger, some even tried calling us but received no response. Hoping to reach the place on time, we had to take a taxi. We couldn't make it to the oral transmission of Prajnaparamita, but at least got satisfaction that we sat for a few minutes in the presence of our own Guru and chanted a short version of the same scripture.

To be continued.......

Why Clay Pot Saving?

I purchased this from Chamkhar and named it to receive blessing from the god of wealth. I have even written 'Jamyang Ku' at the other side of the pot which is not visible.  That means the reason for storing is to buy a statute of Manjushri, god of my birth sign.

When it comes to saving, not necessarily cash, I'm someone who doesn't have enough to expense even a lunch trip. Yet it is surprising to realize how I saved in one of the most convenient bank I bought and named for myself 'Dzambhala'—the god of wealth.

9th May 2020-16 March 2023

It all began with my interest in 'no to waste' rather than 'saving for the future.' Though, you might find, these two approaches have the same outcome, I personally find and believe, that the intention is different. I'll not preach the difference since I've no interest and also for a reason that I'm writing this to tell you why I saved in mud bank—points supported by first approach. 

If you happened to be a bikshu like us then it is common to receive offerings from lay people. In the olden days people would offer foods but today they offer cash as a substitute or mainly because of its convenience. 

When I joined the sangha community I had, never in my wildest dream, thought of accumulating materialistic things. But I've learned the value of having and not having over the time. It is about finding effective solution with whatever little you've. Hence my clay pot idea became a part of storing bank notes to avoid unnecessary wastes.

Initially I stored lower notes but the size of clay pot changed that. I stored bigger notes, occasionally,  to avoid from getting full within a short duration. However I could keep it for less than four years only. By the way I wanted to keep another five more years but, as I said, the size of clay pot matters in the long run. And also because I'm ex-business student, it is my responsibility to give back to the economy what some of us might consider—a healthy contribution. 

I would urge everyone to store for few years till it becomes available to bring before the real banking institutions. The reason why I'm saying this is because we cannot visit banks regularly based on certain reasons. For instance even when you have time, you won't have notes, because you don't have fixed income. The best way I found is to do what I've been doing. Indeed I'm doing this until I find a better solution.

Well it might be of less importance to some of you, But it can change the entire course for someone. If you've been wondering how much I hoard in that mud I've the lists. 

Notes:

500*5

100*42

50*13

20*14

10*30

5*13

1*4

Coins: 

2 Indians 

3 cents

1 Bhutanese

Visited underrated Lugiraw—the horn of a sheep

Monstery seen from Kakaling

I presume most of us would have never heard, let alone reached, one of the underrated monasteries located about a 2-hour walk from Lusbi. I've been longing to go there ever since I started hearing the name: 'lugiraw,' 'lug-sheep,' 'raw-horn,' which roughly translates into ‘sheep's horn’ or ‘horn of a sheep.’ To my utter surprise, I came to know interesting stories after I reached the monastery along with 20 other pilgrims. I'll narrate some of them, although I am not eloquent enough to do as much as some of you expect from me.

I think knowing route is as important as having a proper guide. I'm sharing first about this. 

We drove from Kurjey Lhakhang towards Dur. After fifteen minutes, we came across a junction, took the right road towards BHU, and then took another right turn onto an unpaved road, which led us to Lusbi village. We drove until we reached the end of a bumpy road for a few minutes. We distributed our packed lunch amongst ourselves before we began our actual trek. Within that short span of time, another group, apparently T-Cell staff in their twenties, came smilingly out of their Bolero Camper. Together, we started climbing from the base of a mountain that would take us to our destination. In the beginning, I felt so tired that I even thought of giving up. As I walked further, carrying a 15kg rice container, my body couldn't adjust, so I had to share the burden of carrying the heavy lunch box with my young nephews. Then, I felt relieved with a water bottle and a few chewing gums in my side bag. Frankly speaking, I didn't find the path too strenuous, especially when I saw my 9-year-old niece managing it. She had some difficulty initially, which is common for almost everyone. Once we reached Manithang, a small stupa on the way, the terrain became flat, and we descended until we reached the monastery. Our group took 1 hour and 40 minutes, including breaks; otherwise, it wouldn't take long for regular hikersWe drove from Kurjey Lhakhang towards Dur. After fifteen minutes, we came across a junction, took the right road towards BHU, and then took another right turn onto an unpaved road, which led us to Lusbi village. We drove until we reached the end of a bumpy road for a few minutes. We distributed our packed lunch amongst ourselves before we began our actual trek. Within that short span of time, another group, apparently T-Cell staff in their twenties, came smilingly out of their Bolero Camper. Together, we started climbing from the base of a mountain that would take us to our destination. In the beginning, I felt so tired that I even thought of giving up. As I walked further, carrying a 15kg rice container, my body couldn't adjust, so I had to share the burden of carrying the heavy lunch box with my young nephews. Then, I felt relieved with a water bottle and a few chewing gums in my side bag. Frankly speaking, I didn't find the path too strenuous, especially when I saw my 9-year-old niece managing it. She had some difficulty initially, which is common for almost everyone. Once we reached Manithang, a small stupa on the way, the terrain became flat, and we descended until we reached the monastery. Our group took 1 hour and 40 minutes, including breaks; otherwise, it wouldn't take long for regular hikers. 

If I've forgotten to introduce anyone, it's the caretaker of the monastery who has been with us from the beginning of our journey. He is a kind Lama, the source of many of the stories I will share.

The Lama stays alone, looking after the monastery, but that's not the only reason I'm surprised by him. It's when he told me how he carried gas cylinders and other heavy items like rice bags and water tanks that I was even more amazed. He doesn't use horses to carry heavyweight items. In the simplicity of his life, I saw the qualities of a spiritual seeker who doesn't take anything for granted. I thought that if I truly want to spend time in the woods, knowing life-hacking skills is important, something I didn't realize until I met the Lama. In my observation, the Lama was like a well-equipped explorer venturing into a wildlife safari.

Now, let me share some of the sacred sites of Lugiraw by introducing the founder. According to Sonam Darjay, the caretaker in 2011, the foundation of the current monastery was laid by a famous Geshe Kharak Gomchung from Tibet. The present monastery was extended in the 17th century. The place became more famous, and it got the name from an incident that is narrated by many: Yogi Kharak Gomchung had a sheep accompanying him in carrying his baggage. One day, deities, spirits, and demons were causing harm, cracking the cave in which he was meditating. Miraculously, Geshe Kharak lifted the cave with one of his legs, and at that instant, his sheep came to the rescue, lifting a cave with its horn. Evil spirits were subdued in that moment. We can see the print of the horn and foot, the phodrang of subdued spirits, and the seat of a master evidently behind the monastery. Hence, the name of the monastery. The Eto Meto tree was used for tethering sheep, and I had an opportunity to observe it up close. The holy water below the cave has now dried up, but one can still see the cave getting wet in the area. There are sacred nangtens as well, which I won't elaborate on for some reason.

Print of horn

Eto meto tree, spirits phodrang, foot print and seat of Lama.

Do and don’ts for monks

According to the present Lama, the monastery remained under the care of Tamzhing Chhoeje and descendants for many years. With time, managing it became difficult for the family, so it was handed over to Trongsa Rabdey.

I saw a large desho paper pasted against the wall on the top floor. My curiosity couldn't hold me back from asking the Lama about the purpose of that paper. Upon careful inspection, I could read some of the discipline-related words, though most had worn out. I was told that there were some hundreds of monks, and people from as far as Thangbi would bring monks for their ritualistic purposes. The daily learning of the monks included some of the basic rig-nye, and people living nearby the monastery paid taxes to the powerful lord, and the Lama had influential political powers as well.

It's sad to see that the monastery is in dire need of restoration. It feels like the monastery is completely forgotten by everyone. I hope the concerned authorities will look into it as they would any other important issue.

This monastery may hardly have any space on the visitors' list, but those who make it here will definitely fall in love with it

I ventured into Bonbji—the place of bõn

I never thought I would visit Bemji, one of the remote villages under Nubi gewog in Trongsa. It was only after reaching there and searching online that I learned more about that place.

Nephew Chokden was my guide when I visited Naktsang,  with Kanjur Lhakhang seen in the background. 

Before I share with you the historical significance, let me explain how I reached there.

One of the daughters of my maternal aunt is married to a man from Bemji. So, he was on the way along with his daughter to receive treatment from Rangshikhar Rinpoche in Gelephu. They were not sure about the Rinpoche's residence. Since I know one of the attendants through a friend, I told my mom to inform them that I have someone there. In that short conversation, my mom arranged for my return journey with them. Upon their request, I accompanied them to Rangshikhar Rinpoche as a translator since both the father and daughter were not fluent in Tshangla. 

That's how I reached Bemji. 

In the beginning, I wasn't sure about the exact location, although I knew it starts somewhere from Bjizam, a bridge a few kilometers from Trongsa towards Thimphu. Of course, I had no reason to worry as I was accompanied by natives. I think it took more than forty-five minutes from the bridge point to reach Bemji, which is 17 km away. It was a dark and foggy ride that prevented me from enjoying the new scenery. The only thing I could notice was the light in each household in the distance.

The next morning, I tried looking around, but the foggy weather still veiled the villages. I waited for the next few hours to get a clear view.

Now, as I checked online, I came to know more about Bemji, its religious significance, and the stories of deities.

I asked my in-law to share anything with me, and he shared some interesting stories about Muktse, the protecting deity, and other stories that I forgot. In the olden days, Muktse would roam freely amongst humans. Many women would give birth to his illegitimate children. While some children misused their physical strength, others benefited the community. One notable figure we have heard of is Garp Lungi Khorlo—he became a postman of Trongsa Poenlop for his unmatched speed. Muktse Phodrang can be seen from the school in the distance, overlooking the villages.

A few minutes from the primary school, there's a three-story traditional house known as Bonbji Choje Naktsang. According to one tradition, Bemji is actually a mispronunciation of Bonbji, which means 'inheritors of Bön.' It is said that the illegitimate son of King Trisong Detsen settled here after being exiled. He was a Bön practitioner, hence the name. Another tradition holds slightly different beliefs but ultimately believes the initial settlement was chosen by a descendant of a Tibetan king.

After walking a few steps down, there's another two-story house called Kanjur Lhakhang. I was told that the Kanjur was first received by the people of Kuenga Rabten from Tibet and kept there, with the commitment to recite it once every year. However, people couldn't continue after a few years, so it was brought to a source of Mangdi River after discussions among concerned authorities. Kanjur recitation is still continued every year by the people of Bemji. Monks from Kharchu Monastery have voluntarily gone there upon the villagers' request in the last few years, starting from the 15th day of the first Tibetan month.

Then I went for another 20-minute ride to Dokseyphel Goenpa in the north.

Dokseyphel Goenpa 

The next day, I began my journey towards Bumthang. I hitched a ride in four vehicles until I reached my destination.