I ventured into Bonbji—the place of bõn

I never thought I would visit Bemji, one of the remote villages under Nubi gewog in Trongsa. It was only after reaching there and searching online that I learned more about that place.

Nephew Chokden was my guide when I visited Naktsang,  with Kanjur Lhakhang seen in the background. 

Before I share with you the historical significance, let me explain how I reached there.

One of the daughters of my maternal aunt is married to a man from Bemji. So, he was on the way along with his daughter to receive treatment from Rangshikhar Rinpoche in Gelephu. They were not sure about the Rinpoche's residence. Since I know one of the attendants through a friend, I told my mom to inform them that I have someone there. In that short conversation, my mom arranged for my return journey with them. Upon their request, I accompanied them to Rangshikhar Rinpoche as a translator since both the father and daughter were not fluent in Tshangla. 

That's how I reached Bemji. 

In the beginning, I wasn't sure about the exact location, although I knew it starts somewhere from Bjizam, a bridge a few kilometers from Trongsa towards Thimphu. Of course, I had no reason to worry as I was accompanied by natives. I think it took more than forty-five minutes from the bridge point to reach Bemji, which is 17 km away. It was a dark and foggy ride that prevented me from enjoying the new scenery. The only thing I could notice was the light in each household in the distance.

The next morning, I tried looking around, but the foggy weather still veiled the villages. I waited for the next few hours to get a clear view.

Now, as I checked online, I came to know more about Bemji, its religious significance, and the stories of deities.

I asked my in-law to share anything with me, and he shared some interesting stories about Muktse, the protecting deity, and other stories that I forgot. In the olden days, Muktse would roam freely amongst humans. Many women would give birth to his illegitimate children. While some children misused their physical strength, others benefited the community. One notable figure we have heard of is Garp Lungi Khorlo—he became a postman of Trongsa Poenlop for his unmatched speed. Muktse Phodrang can be seen from the school in the distance, overlooking the villages.

A few minutes from the primary school, there's a three-story traditional house known as Bonbji Choje Naktsang. According to one tradition, Bemji is actually a mispronunciation of Bonbji, which means 'inheritors of Bön.' It is said that the illegitimate son of King Trisong Detsen settled here after being exiled. He was a Bön practitioner, hence the name. Another tradition holds slightly different beliefs but ultimately believes the initial settlement was chosen by a descendant of a Tibetan king.

After walking a few steps down, there's another two-story house called Kanjur Lhakhang. I was told that the Kanjur was first received by the people of Kuenga Rabten from Tibet and kept there, with the commitment to recite it once every year. However, people couldn't continue after a few years, so it was brought to a source of Mangdi River after discussions among concerned authorities. Kanjur recitation is still continued every year by the people of Bemji. Monks from Kharchu Monastery have voluntarily gone there upon the villagers' request in the last few years, starting from the 15th day of the first Tibetan month.

Then I went for another 20-minute ride to Dokseyphel Goenpa in the north.

Dokseyphel Goenpa 

The next day, I began my journey towards Bumthang. I hitched a ride in four vehicles until I reached my destination.

Visited home in Gelephu

Journey 

After four long years in Bumthang I made myself to southern foothills along with brother and family to meet our only mother. Moreover it is better to be in the south during cold season and I've always wanted to go there for a short break. I woke up at 3:00 am to begin my morning chant and get ready for the departure after an hour. However we were late by one hour when we started our journey (5:00 am.) Our vehicle roared through the silent Chamkhar town and then vanished into the Garpang pines. It was a marvelous ride in the early morning especially when there’s no ice and snow.

Newly paved road between Serzhong—Tareythang highway.

We reached Trongsa when the sun rays has already fallen on the mountain peaks. After refueling the diesel our journey continued until we reached a roadside canopy at Koshala. We unpacked our tea and snacks during a short break. But the motion sickness didn't let us eat and drink peacefully. It hardly occurs to me with certain type of vehicle. Amongst all niece had a bad suffering; we had to stop several times in between. 

Although my brother and I stay nearby we hardly get time to talk. This trip was worth as we could share our opinions otherwise our information passes down through second and third person.

I was surprised when we reached home at 2:30 pm. The memory’s of traveling late in the night in the bus is unforgettable. Those days we had to travel more than 16 hours to reach Gelephu from Trongsa/Bumthang. We didn't have any choice than boarding bus. Finding a lodge in the late hours was another burden. Nowadays it isn't issue even if you don't have personal vehicle. 

After reaching home I was surprised by some of the changes. Of course positive changes like upgrading of Norbuling Higher Secondary, black top road till Tareythang, most houses are covered by betel nut trees, number of concrete houses have increased, apart from bus there's taxi and the shooting of land prices , all this factors have helped people’s living standards to improve as well. 

Sansari Bazaar 

Betel nut trees 

I am not satisfied with Sansarey Bazaar, we have seen this old colony since our childhood days and is still as it was long time ago. I wish if concern authority could help develop this old place to become a proper business market with proper infrastructures. The place does have a better scope. 

Dadgari Bazaar

If you happened to be in Gelephu, Dadgari is a must visit Thursday market in Assam where hundreds of people come and buy goods. I wanted to visit and it truly became wish-fulfiling this year after pandemic. I bought some of the things at a cheaper price which would cost twice or even thrice in Bumthang. People often down look Dadgari products without knowing that some of the expensive shops claiming their products as branded are actually being supplied from there. Of course you can't deny the fact that inferior products are supplied abundantly considering the lower income customers. 

Rickshaw drivers waiting for the customers

Vegetable seller's waiting for BONI buyer in the early morning. 

The price for this product is much cheaper and they're known for lasting as well. 

By the way if you're not tough there are people desperately wanting to take advantage of your weakness. For example, a day before the departure from Gelephu to Trongsa I went to buy spectacle in Dadgari, market adjacent to Bhutan gate, upon the suggestion from a friend. I asked the optical owner to show me the best quality, he showed me and was trying to convince me how good it looks on me and that I must go for that. If you've done shopping in Indian markets then you would know how cost prices are negotiated. They'll ask you double the price initially and it will go down half or more when it reaches your hand. The guy scammed me and I paid huge amount for the spectacles. I was aware and I let it go the way he wanted. 

Gelephu town 

I loitered myself in the town while remembering: 

As a young boy I used to come to this town just to watch movies with friends and sleep in the hotel room which would cost less than 150 ngultrum per night. I vivid five/six people in a single room, two bedded rarely, watching TV and adult movies on the DVD that was rented from a shop. 

An old cinema hall area is converted into park

This building has different shops

On one incident I ate THUKPA from a hotel but I didn't pay. It was not because of empty pockets, I had enough to cash, it could be some childish temptations to escape the life time opportunity of eating free of cost. 

One winter I went to Gelephu Tshechu with just fifteen ngultrum, I was fond of toy cars willing to do anything if I am to get that, so I bought an army jeep with the amount and returned home without even entering the Tali Dratsang.

I walked alone remembering all those bygone memories thinking how we might react if we were to reunite.

Remembering the day when I saw first bicycle

Riding this kind of cycle after so many years

I was barely 9 years old when I saw a bicycle for the first time in Samdrupjongkhar town more than 20 years ago. Although my memory’s couldn't store everything, I can still remember how I felt when I saw a man wearing a dark complexion riding and ringing a bell along the roads: I wondered how bicycles could produce such a melodious sound when there’s obstacles in the front. Later did I know those dark complexions were our neighbor Indians. It was completely different experience for a boy who came all the way from remote village where he had seen nothing but humans, some domesticated and wild animals. 

Few years later I could ride bicycles like the one I saw that once made me wondered. Even to these days— whenever I come across bicycle—the one that is mostly used by middle class Indians—which we call it MECHEY CYCLE—it reminds me of my narration thereof. 

Nyekor To Ura

Lately I, along with four other friends, had a memorable excursion at Ura. This is my first pilgrimage to Ura although I frequently visited the place for some good reasons. 

View from Shamzur. 

It was 24th July, Sunday. Mani Lama, as is well known from his previous incarnation with the name, planned to go Kunzangdrak but it got canceled. This made me feel bad about the situation. I'm such kind of a person who will have to clear the bump on my road map. So I asked Lama if we could go Ura for a day's pilgrimage to which he impulsively replied, "sure, where do you think we should go?" I pondered, "wherever Lama has visited," and looked at other friend as we were trying to find the best places. "Longchenpa's place in Ura." I added as it has been in my bucket lists ever since I came to read and know more about the omniscient one. 

We waited for the next day. 

I set alarm at 3:30 am but woke up at 5:00 am. Quite funny, right? We had to cook lunch and get ready with everything within a short time as I knew in my instinct that Lama was waiting for us. Luckily we were able to do quicker than we expected. After having light breakfast our journey kicked off before seven via old national highway. 

It was a cloudy day. We were ready with the weapon to shield ourselves from the rain. Without stopping at any point we straight away went to Shamzur which is about two hours walk from the road point, for slow walker, not for otherwise people. It took us at least one hour, if not additional fifteen minutes, at a normal speed. 

Unfortunately we couldn't get the proper explanation of the Lhakhang since care-taker was not there. Thanks to three jewels, at least we got opportunity to get inside with the help of pilgrims who have taken hardship to get the key from a care-taker after walking down the village then going back climbing up towards the Lhakhang. 

Nobody explained us anything. If not for Lama we might have returned without hearing anything about that sacred historical structure. The monastery has a statute of Guru Rinpoche as the main nangten constructed as an antidote during those days. According to the narration it was learnt that the villagers didn't help previous Wangthang Lama so previous Mani Lama played main role in the construction which was later consecrated by the Wangthang Rinpoche himself. 

I knew nothing more than that. Out of curiosity we went behind the temple and saw beautiful place of Shingkhar down the valley. We took photo in order to keep memories. 

Our next destiny was Dechen Choling, one of the eight lings of Longchenpa. 

After visiting there we visited a temple which is few minutes walk that has statute of a Shakyamuni Buddha and its believed as wish-fulfiling. Whoever prays here are blessed with whatever they want. I too had wished my share. 

We were hungry. No place was suitable for us to sit and munch on our food. After driving 10km we found a place where we could rest and have hefty lunch. We had begun our meal when rain started drenching us despite having umbrellas. 

Nevertheless it was an adventure in disguise for all of us. We simply loved everything that has happened. 

Some of the photos. 

Waste being dumped inside the wood. 

Rest.

Shingkhar Dechen Choling Seen.

Breath Taking View.

Lunch Spoiler: heavy rain. 

I Received Maize of Trashi Yangtse

I've a fond memories of growing up eating maize since my childhood days. When I received corn (as a chhom) on 25th July from a friend, sent from his home, it reminded me of my days when I would really hate kharang. But there was hardly any options if you've to fill your tummy. Nevertheless what I'm is what I've eaten therefore I'm grateful for those nourishment I received organically unlike the pesticides mixed and the processed foods that we get nowadays. 

Roasted maize. 
I had no idea other than roasting maize in a fire until a friend did this on his induction cooktop. It tasted good but not as much as it would have been from the fire. 

Boiling maize. 
I tried boiling but it tasted not so good. 

Given a chance I would eat roasted one. 

The Pain of Losing

Dear Ata,

I just wanted to say goodbye once more.

I don’t know how to say this. I don’t even know how to begin. I’m pretending to be okay, but the days have never been the same since you left us. I hope and pray that you are at peace wherever your fate has taken you. As I write this, my eyes are filled with tears, and I struggle to control my breath.

Alas—perhaps this is simply what life is.

I was receiving teachings on Chandrakirti’s Madhyamaka when I heard the news that you had been admitted to the hospital. This treatise is an exercise in non-assertion; it does not allow us to fall into the extremes of existence, non-existence, both, or neither. I was among twenty-seven others in the session, yet my mind was far away. I could not concentrate. I was thinking only of you.

When even this profound dharma—known as the king of all treatises—could not console me, I felt that nothing could. Life, as it is said, does not allow us to steer it according to our wishes. So I kept moving, adjusting as best as I could. Adjustment—something I had only read about before—became a necessity.

I still remember the day I went to Thimphu to attend to you. It was June 22, 2021. A friend was driving, my in-law sat in the back seat, and I was beside the driver, playing music. Outwardly, we seemed fine, but only we knew what was happening inside. As soon as we reached Thimphu, my in-law received a call informing us that a patient had been admitted to the ICU. My only wish then was to see you one last time while you were still breathing. But that had to wait until the next day.

We couldn’t tell our mother about the ICU, fearing it would add to her suffering as she was midway through her eight-day quarantine in Gelephu. Later, she told us she already knew but chose to remain silent. She also shared stories of how quarantine had affected people during emergencies.

Two stories touched me deeply. One was of a middle-aged man from Laya who had lost family members in a tragic landslide and flood. Though bound to attend their funeral rites, quarantine held him back. Another was of a man from Tsirang who knew his father’s cremation would be over long before he reached home.

“My son is still alive,” my mother thought—and that belief gave her strength.

The next day, after taking a COVID test, I entered the hospital and exchanged places with my second elder brother, who had already stayed for over a month as your attendant. I entered the ICU quietly. Out of respect for my robe, my bedding was arranged among others. Though I felt uncomfortable due to my vow of celibacy, circumstances left me no choice.

In the ICU, attendants could visit patients every three hours, up to five times a day. The sounds of machines—constant, mechanical, relentless—filled the air. When I first saw you, I couldn’t recognize you. And when I did, you no longer felt like my brother. I say this with honesty and pain. My legs trembled. Tears filled my eyes. I couldn’t greet you properly and had to step out.

For the next ten days, I visited you sparingly. Sometimes, I couldn’t go at all. The sounds of the machines haunted me.

During my stay, I spent my time reciting prayers, visiting wards when possible, offering sungkey and jinlab, and speaking with patients. I witnessed many layers of life—both suffering and courage.

On July 4, 2021, you left us forever.

For the first time, I truly witnessed impermanence—not as a teaching, but as reality. Until then, I had heard of loss, seen others mourn, but never imagined it would come so soon to us. Habitual tendencies had blinded me.

My brother, the mathematics and computer skills I learned from you may now be obsolete, but the greatest lesson you gave me—the impermanence of this human body—will stay with me for life.

As Robert Frost said, life goes on. It is painful to leave someone we love, but it is far more painful when someone we love leaves us. Every time I think of you, I pray—for you, and for all beings.

In the absence of death, I would never have known the true essence of birth.

Received Transmission (Lung) of The Collected Writings of Rongzompa

I prostate before my Guru!

Rongzom Chokyi Zangpo 
Pic: Wikipedia 

To some of you who do not know, Reading Transmission involves thorough reading of scripture by a teacher to his student(s.) It also means giving authority to practitioners where they can learn and contemplate. This method of transmission from teacher to student(s) is one of the important and a uniqueness of Buddhist. It shouldn't be broken in between by any means. To understand precisely, it is like a clean spring water that will nourish unless it gets contaminated somewhere. So it is equally important to keep lineage clean and transmission passed on from generation to generation.

Some of you might be wondering who was Rongzom Chokyi Zangpo. I won't be able to justify His welfare for the sentient beings. It is beyond sky and the earth as we usually measure the limitless things. Rongzompa was one of the highly accomplished practitioners and was also an 'omniscient' writer like Longchenpa and Ju Mipham. I can only think that He was Buddha in another form. Although I've a little knowledge about Him I'm still a proud student after receiving transmission of His writings. 

I've a reason why I must be proud. Yes proud. Proud can have wrong connotations too but here it doesn't apply. This is because to receive such blessings it requires five perfect conditions: teacher, teaching, assembly, place, and time. 

1. Teacher

Kyabje Shechen Rabjam Rinpoche is a grandson of Kyabje Dorje Chhang Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche. Is also 7th throne holder of Shechen Monstery. I will not elaborate more than this. 

2. Teaching

Rongzom's Collected Writings are as precious as jewels. 

3. Assembly 

Kyabje Namkhai Nyingpo Rinpoche, truelkus, khenpos, lay monks and lay practitioners received transmission. 

4. Place

Lhodrak Kharchu Monastery is not ordinary place. It is Zangdopelri and there's no reason why I should hesitate to say this. 

5. Time

Every 4th month is Auspicious. Good deeds will multiply. It is a perfect time to receive such teachings. 

So I must be happy and grateful for this rare opportunity in life. 

Hundreds of devoutees gathered to receive this precious and rare opportunity while another hundreds received through online streamlining around the world. Kyabje Shechen Rabjam Rinpoche talked in English and Tibetan to make online recipients comfortable. He even assured to freely distribute Rongzom's works to those interested devotees. 

Thank you my Guru for making this possible!