I ventured into Bonbji—the place of bõn

I never thought I would visit Bemji, one of the remote villages under Nubi gewog in Trongsa. It was only after reaching there and searching online that I learned more about that place.

Nephew Chokden was my guide when I visited Naktsang,  with Kanjur Lhakhang seen in the background. 

Before I share with you the historical significance, let me explain how I reached there.

One of the daughters of my maternal aunt is married to a man from Bemji. So, he was on the way along with his daughter to receive treatment from Rangshikhar Rinpoche in Gelephu. They were not sure about the Rinpoche's residence. Since I know one of the attendants through a friend, I told my mom to inform them that I have someone there. In that short conversation, my mom arranged for my return journey with them. Upon their request, I accompanied them to Rangshikhar Rinpoche as a translator since both the father and daughter were not fluent in Tshangla. 

That's how I reached Bemji. 

In the beginning, I wasn't sure about the exact location, although I knew it starts somewhere from Bjizam, a bridge a few kilometers from Trongsa towards Thimphu. Of course, I had no reason to worry as I was accompanied by natives. I think it took more than forty-five minutes from the bridge point to reach Bemji, which is 17 km away. It was a dark and foggy ride that prevented me from enjoying the new scenery. The only thing I could notice was the light in each household in the distance.

The next morning, I tried looking around, but the foggy weather still veiled the villages. I waited for the next few hours to get a clear view.

Now, as I checked online, I came to know more about Bemji, its religious significance, and the stories of deities.

I asked my in-law to share anything with me, and he shared some interesting stories about Muktse, the protecting deity, and other stories that I forgot. In the olden days, Muktse would roam freely amongst humans. Many women would give birth to his illegitimate children. While some children misused their physical strength, others benefited the community. One notable figure we have heard of is Garp Lungi Khorlo—he became a postman of Trongsa Poenlop for his unmatched speed. Muktse Phodrang can be seen from the school in the distance, overlooking the villages.

A few minutes from the primary school, there's a three-story traditional house known as Bonbji Choje Naktsang. According to one tradition, Bemji is actually a mispronunciation of Bonbji, which means 'inheritors of Bön.' It is said that the illegitimate son of King Trisong Detsen settled here after being exiled. He was a Bön practitioner, hence the name. Another tradition holds slightly different beliefs but ultimately believes the initial settlement was chosen by a descendant of a Tibetan king.

After walking a few steps down, there's another two-story house called Kanjur Lhakhang. I was told that the Kanjur was first received by the people of Kuenga Rabten from Tibet and kept there, with the commitment to recite it once every year. However, people couldn't continue after a few years, so it was brought to a source of Mangdi River after discussions among concerned authorities. Kanjur recitation is still continued every year by the people of Bemji. Monks from Kharchu Monastery have voluntarily gone there upon the villagers' request in the last few years, starting from the 15th day of the first Tibetan month.

Then I went for another 20-minute ride to Dokseyphel Goenpa in the north.

Dokseyphel Goenpa 

The next day, I began my journey towards Bumthang. I hitched a ride in four vehicles until I reached my destination.

Visited home in Gelephu

Journey 

After four long years in Bumthang I made myself to southern foothills along with brother and family to meet our only mother. Moreover it is better to be in the south during cold season and I've always wanted to go there for a short break. I woke up at 3:00 am to begin my morning chant and get ready for the departure after an hour. However we were late by one hour when we started our journey (5:00 am.) Our vehicle roared through the silent Chamkhar town and then vanished into the Garpang pines. It was a marvelous ride in the early morning especially when there’s no ice and snow.

Newly paved road between Serzhong—Tareythang highway.

We reached Trongsa when the sun rays has already fallen on the mountain peaks. After refueling the diesel our journey continued until we reached a roadside canopy at Koshala. We unpacked our tea and snacks during a short break. But the motion sickness didn't let us eat and drink peacefully. It hardly occurs to me with certain type of vehicle. Amongst all niece had a bad suffering; we had to stop several times in between. 

Although my brother and I stay nearby we hardly get time to talk. This trip was worth as we could share our opinions otherwise our information passes down through second and third person.

I was surprised when we reached home at 2:30 pm. The memory’s of traveling late in the night in the bus is unforgettable. Those days we had to travel more than 16 hours to reach Gelephu from Trongsa/Bumthang. We didn't have any choice than boarding bus. Finding a lodge in the late hours was another burden. Nowadays it isn't issue even if you don't have personal vehicle. 

After reaching home I was surprised by some of the changes. Of course positive changes like upgrading of Norbuling Higher Secondary, black top road till Tareythang, most houses are covered by betel nut trees, number of concrete houses have increased, apart from bus there's taxi and the shooting of land prices , all this factors have helped people’s living standards to improve as well. 

Sansari Bazaar 

Betel nut trees 

I am not satisfied with Sansarey Bazaar, we have seen this old colony since our childhood days and is still as it was long time ago. I wish if concern authority could help develop this old place to become a proper business market with proper infrastructures. The place does have a better scope. 

Dadgari Bazaar

If you happened to be in Gelephu, Dadgari is a must visit Thursday market in Assam where hundreds of people come and buy goods. I wanted to visit and it truly became wish-fulfiling this year after pandemic. I bought some of the things at a cheaper price which would cost twice or even thrice in Bumthang. People often down look Dadgari products without knowing that some of the expensive shops claiming their products as branded are actually being supplied from there. Of course you can't deny the fact that inferior products are supplied abundantly considering the lower income customers. 

Rickshaw drivers waiting for the customers

Vegetable seller's waiting for BONI buyer in the early morning. 

The price for this product is much cheaper and they're known for lasting as well. 

By the way if you're not tough there are people desperately wanting to take advantage of your weakness. For example, a day before the departure from Gelephu to Trongsa I went to buy spectacle in Dadgari, market adjacent to Bhutan gate, upon the suggestion from a friend. I asked the optical owner to show me the best quality, he showed me and was trying to convince me how good it looks on me and that I must go for that. If you've done shopping in Indian markets then you would know how cost prices are negotiated. They'll ask you double the price initially and it will go down half or more when it reaches your hand. The guy scammed me and I paid huge amount for the spectacles. I was aware and I let it go the way he wanted. 

Gelephu town 

I loitered myself in the town while remembering: 

As a young boy I used to come to this town just to watch movies with friends and sleep in the hotel room which would cost less than 150 ngultrum per night. I vivid five/six people in a single room, two bedded rarely, watching TV and adult movies on the DVD that was rented from a shop. 

An old cinema hall area is converted into park

This building has different shops

On one incident I ate THUKPA from a hotel but I didn't pay. It was not because of empty pockets, I had enough to cash, it could be some childish temptations to escape the life time opportunity of eating free of cost. 

One winter I went to Gelephu Tshechu with just fifteen ngultrum, I was fond of toy cars willing to do anything if I am to get that, so I bought an army jeep with the amount and returned home without even entering the Tali Dratsang.

I walked alone remembering all those bygone memories thinking how we might react if we were to reunite.

Remembering the day when I saw first bicycle

Riding this kind of cycle after so many years

I was barely 9 years old when I saw a bicycle for the first time in Samdrupjongkhar town more than 20 years ago. Although my memory’s couldn't store everything, I can still remember how I felt when I saw a man wearing a dark complexion riding and ringing a bell along the roads: I wondered how bicycles could produce such a melodious sound when there’s obstacles in the front. Later did I know those dark complexions were our neighbor Indians. It was completely different experience for a boy who came all the way from remote village where he had seen nothing but humans, some domesticated and wild animals. 

Few years later I could ride bicycles like the one I saw that once made me wondered. Even to these days— whenever I come across bicycle—the one that is mostly used by middle class Indians—which we call it MECHEY CYCLE—it reminds me of my narration thereof. 

Nyekor To Ura

Lately I, along with four other friends, had a memorable excursion at Ura. This is my first pilgrimage to Ura although I frequently visited the place for some good reasons. 

View from Shamzur. 

It was 24th July, Sunday. Mani Lama, as is well known from his previous incarnation with the name, planned to go Kunzangdrak but it got canceled. This made me feel bad about the situation. I'm such kind of a person who will have to clear the bump on my road map. So I asked Lama if we could go Ura for a day's pilgrimage to which he impulsively replied, "sure, where do you think we should go?" I pondered, "wherever Lama has visited," and looked at other friend as we were trying to find the best places. "Longchenpa's place in Ura." I added as it has been in my bucket lists ever since I came to read and know more about the omniscient one. 

We waited for the next day. 

I set alarm at 3:30 am but woke up at 5:00 am. Quite funny, right? We had to cook lunch and get ready with everything within a short time as I knew in my instinct that Lama was waiting for us. Luckily we were able to do quicker than we expected. After having light breakfast our journey kicked off before seven via old national highway. 

It was a cloudy day. We were ready with the weapon to shield ourselves from the rain. Without stopping at any point we straight away went to Shamzur which is about two hours walk from the road point, for slow walker, not for otherwise people. It took us at least one hour, if not additional fifteen minutes, at a normal speed. 

Unfortunately we couldn't get the proper explanation of the Lhakhang since care-taker was not there. Thanks to three jewels, at least we got opportunity to get inside with the help of pilgrims who have taken hardship to get the key from a care-taker after walking down the village then going back climbing up towards the Lhakhang. 

Nobody explained us anything. If not for Lama we might have returned without hearing anything about that sacred historical structure. The monastery has a statute of Guru Rinpoche as the main nangten constructed as an antidote during those days. According to the narration it was learnt that the villagers didn't help previous Wangthang Lama so previous Mani Lama played main role in the construction which was later consecrated by the Wangthang Rinpoche himself. 

I knew nothing more than that. Out of curiosity we went behind the temple and saw beautiful place of Shingkhar down the valley. We took photo in order to keep memories. 

Our next destiny was Dechen Choling, one of the eight lings of Longchenpa. 

After visiting there we visited a temple which is few minutes walk that has statute of a Shakyamuni Buddha and its believed as wish-fulfiling. Whoever prays here are blessed with whatever they want. I too had wished my share. 

We were hungry. No place was suitable for us to sit and munch on our food. After driving 10km we found a place where we could rest and have hefty lunch. We had begun our meal when rain started drenching us despite having umbrellas. 

Nevertheless it was an adventure in disguise for all of us. We simply loved everything that has happened. 

Some of the photos. 

Waste being dumped inside the wood. 

Rest.

Shingkhar Dechen Choling Seen.

Breath Taking View.

Lunch Spoiler: heavy rain. 

I Received Maize of Trashi Yangtse

I've a fond memories of growing up eating maize since my childhood days. When I received corn (as a chhom) on 25th July from a friend, sent from his home, it reminded me of my days when I would really hate kharang. But there was hardly any options if you've to fill your tummy. Nevertheless what I'm is what I've eaten therefore I'm grateful for those nourishment I received organically unlike the pesticides mixed and the processed foods that we get nowadays. 

Roasted maize. 
I had no idea other than roasting maize in a fire until a friend did this on his induction cooktop. It tasted good but not as much as it would have been from the fire. 

Boiling maize. 
I tried boiling but it tasted not so good. 

Given a chance I would eat roasted one. 

The Pain of Losing

Dear Ata, just wanted to say goodbye once more. 

I don't know how to say. I —I —I’m…….I don't know how to begin. Still then, I'm pretending to be okay. Day has never been same since you left us. I hope and pray that you’re fine wherever your fate has taken. As I'm writing, with eyes full of tears, I’m controlling my breath as well. 

Alas! Maybe this is part of what life is all about. 

I was receiving Chandrakriti’s Madhayamaka when I heard the news that you were admitted to hospital. This treatise is an assertionlessness, which means it doesn't allow us to fall into the trap of existence, non-existence, both and neither of the two. (Those of you who do not know madhyamaka and logic-epistemology, first you'll have to understand and make yourself well versed with the conventional terms of these broad subjects, hence I'll not elaborate beyond this.) I was amongst 27 others for the session but my mind was out of class. I couldn't concentrate thinking about you. When this profound dharma, labeled the king of all treatise, couldn't console me, I thought, nothing would help me at that point of a time. I know some of you'll not like cliché even then as mentioned thereof, this is life and you don't have right to steer, so I kept moving according to what life has to offer. Adjustment, that's what I've read in some books and applied out of no choice in such a situation. 

I still remember the day when I went to Thimphu to attend my sick brother. It was 22nd June  2021, my friend was driving a car and in law was at the back seat, I was next to a driver, playing music’s. Of course we found ourselves completely okay externally but only the god knows what was going deep inside us. Personally I was going through mixed feelings. No sooner did we reach Thimphu than my in-law received a call and she told me that a patient was admitted to ICU ( Intensive Care Unit). My only wish at that moment was to see my brother for one last time while he was still breathing, for that to happen I had to wait until next day, we spent night at cousin sister’s house. 

We couldn't tell our mom about ICU fearing she might have to go through additional suffering as she has completed half of the 8 days quarantine at one of the hotels in Gelephu. Anyways she told us that she knew few days later from one of her relatives but she chose to remain silently. She also narrated us how quarantine has affected common people during emergencies. 

Out of many quarantine related stories, I found two stories touching, this incident actually boosted my mother's energy, that's what she told me. There was a middle aged man from Laya undergoing same quarantine procedures. If you remember, due to landslide and flashfloods caused by heavy rainfall 10 Layap’s lost their lives. The man lost his family members in that tragic incident and was bound to reach and attend funeral rites but no way. 

Another man from Tsirang expected to reach during his father's crematorium but 8 days was too long. He told my mother and other people that everything will be finished by the time he manage to reach home. 

My son is still alive, my mother thought and made herself stronger amid the toughest time's of her life. 

The next day I did a covid test to get permission to enter hospital, later in the afternoon exchanged with my second elder brother who stayed for more than month as an attendant of our sickly brother. I entered a room, knew it as ICU attendees without asking anybody, I was ushered near the door by the eldest in-law but one of the lady, who later became little closer as she was a relative of my friend, requested my in-law to arrange my bedding in their line since they respected my red robe. By the way I felt little uncomfortable to sleep in between the women as I have taken a celibacy vow. Nevertheless I didn't feel guilty for it was situational factors which forced me. I didn't have choice as I believed I was a guest for the first few nights. After two days I found a place in the corner where I met an acquaintance who was IT officer in one of the Ministries. Later we would share our views on buddhism. I felt sad for him too as he lost his mom who was bedridden for more than years supported by ventilation. As promised he texted me two months later about the demise of his mom.

In the ICU attendant is allowed to visit patient after every 3 hours but not exceeding five times in a day. It starts from 5:30 a.m. and ends at 10 p.m. All you've to do is feeding and cleaning. 

When I visited ICU for the first time, I was nervous at the same time feard. I wasn't sure how to face myself to someone who's close to me but I made myself strong enough to face as I believe in the mantra of expect the unexpected. When I entered the corridor along with dozens of attendants I saw them walking barefoot after keeping their slippers in a rack, I did the same, I could hear the noise of machines as if they're were pumping something followed by other beeping sounds. Few moments later I saw the patients, they were unconsciously kept in the bed. I couldn't recognize my brother at that instant. When I did, he wasn't my brother. Sorry but honestly, that's how I noticed. I slowly walked towards him. I couldn't handle. I looked at fellow attendants, I could only feel my trembling feet, saw them cleaning and doing other related works. Once again I carefully looked at my brother in disbelief, I could feel the pain, relate myself with him, my eyes were filled with tears, I couldn't greet him properly. So I slipped out of room and sent in-law in my place. For next 10 days I went once in a day or sometimes I didn't go even once. It felt like machines have started to irritate my ears. Those noises have power to make you sick even if you're fit. 

During my stay in the hospital I spent my time reciting prayers for the sick people. I visited wards, although hospital has restrictions, tried interacting with some, gave them blessed strings (sungkey) and jinlab. Learned different level of life seeing such patients. 

I saw failures and success!  

On 4th July 2021, my brother left us, forever. For the first time in my life I witnessed something that would strike everyone of us one day or another. Prior to this, I saw people mourning, I've heard about the passing of somebody's parents, friends, sibling, teacher, student, boss, nephew, uncle, aunty, cousin, loving friend so on and on, never thought this would come soon upon us. The habitual tendencies has obscured truth and I was lost into it. 

My brother, those mathematics and computer skills I learned from you have become obsolete by now but the biggest teaching I'll value throughout my life is impermanence of this human body that I learned from you. 

I can sum up everything about life like what Robert Frost said, it goes on. It is painful to leave close one but it is quite another thing when our close one leaves us. Everytime I think of you, I pray for you, I pray for beings. 

In absence of death I would have never known the essence of birth. 

Received Reading Transmission (Lung) of The Collected Writings of Rongzompa

I prostate before my Guru!

Rongzom Chokyi Zangpo 
Pic: Wikipedia 

To some of you who do not know, Reading Transmission involves thorough reading of scripture by a teacher to his student(s.) It also means giving authority to practitioners where they can learn and contemplate. This method of transmission from teacher to student(s) is one of the important and a uniqueness of Buddhist. It shouldn't be broken in between by any means. To understand precisely, it is like a clean spring water that will nourish unless it gets contaminated somewhere. So it is equally important to keep lineage clean and transmission passed on from generation to generation.

Some of you might be wondering who was Rongzom Chokyi Zangpo. I won't be able to justify His welfare for the sentient beings. It is beyond sky and the earth as we usually measure the limitless things. Rongzompa was one of the highly accomplished practitioners and was also an 'omniscient' writer like Longchenpa and Ju Mipham. I can only think that He was Buddha in another form. Although I've a little knowledge about Him I'm still a proud student after receiving transmission of His writings. 

I've a reason why I must be proud. Yes proud. Proud can have wrong connotations too but here it doesn't apply. This is because to receive such blessings it requires five perfect conditions: teacher, teaching, assembly, place, and time. 

1. Teacher

Kyabje Shechen Rabjam Rinpoche is a grandson of Kyabje Dorje Chhang Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche. Is also 7th throne holder of Shechen Monstery. I will not elaborate more than this. 

2. Teaching

Rongzom's Collected Writings are as precious as jewels. 

3. Assembly 

Kyabje Namkhai Nyingpo Rinpoche, truelkus, khenpos, lay monks and lay practitioners received transmission. 

4. Place

Lhodrak Kharchu Monastery is not ordinary place. It is Zangdopelri and there's no reason why I should hesitate to say this. 

5. Time

Every 4th month is Auspicious. Good deeds will multiply. It is a perfect time to receive such teachings. 

So I must be happy and grateful for this rare opportunity in life. 

Hundreds of devoutees gathered to receive this precious and rare opportunity while another hundreds received through online streamlining around the world. Kyabje Shechen Rabjam Rinpoche talked in English and Tibetan to make online recipients comfortable. He even assured to freely distribute Rongzom's works to those interested devotees. 

Thank you my Guru for making this possible!