Monstery seen from Kakaling |
Print of horn |
Eto meto tree, spirits phodrang, foot print and seat of Lama. |
Do and don’ts for monks |
Monstery seen from Kakaling |
Print of horn |
Eto meto tree, spirits phodrang, foot print and seat of Lama. |
Do and don’ts for monks |
I never thought I would visit Bemji, one of the remote villages under Nubi gewog in Trongsa. It was only after reaching there and searching online that I learned more about that place.
Nephew Chokden was my guide when I visited Naktsang, with Kanjur Lhakhang seen in the background. |
Before I share with you the historical significance, let me explain how I reached there.
One of the daughters of my maternal aunt is married to a man from Bemji. So, he was on the way along with his daughter to receive treatment from Rangshikhar Rinpoche in Gelephu. They were not sure about the Rinpoche's residence. Since I know one of the attendants through a friend, I told my mom to inform them that I have someone there. In that short conversation, my mom arranged for my return journey with them. Upon their request, I accompanied them to Rangshikhar Rinpoche as a translator since both the father and daughter were not fluent in Tshangla.
That's how I reached Bemji.
In the beginning, I wasn't sure about the exact location, although I knew it starts somewhere from Bjizam, a bridge a few kilometers from Trongsa towards Thimphu. Of course, I had no reason to worry as I was accompanied by natives. I think it took more than forty-five minutes from the bridge point to reach Bemji, which is 17 km away. It was a dark and foggy ride that prevented me from enjoying the new scenery. The only thing I could notice was the light in each household in the distance.
The next morning, I tried looking around, but the foggy weather still veiled the villages. I waited for the next few hours to get a clear view.
Now, as I checked online, I came to know more about Bemji, its religious significance, and the stories of deities.
I asked my in-law to share anything with me, and he shared some interesting stories about Muktse, the protecting deity, and other stories that I forgot. In the olden days, Muktse would roam freely amongst humans. Many women would give birth to his illegitimate children. While some children misused their physical strength, others benefited the community. One notable figure we have heard of is Garp Lungi Khorlo—he became a postman of Trongsa Poenlop for his unmatched speed. Muktse Phodrang can be seen from the school in the distance, overlooking the villages.
A few minutes from the primary school, there's a three-story traditional house known as Bonbji Choje Naktsang. According to one tradition, Bemji is actually a mispronunciation of Bonbji, which means 'inheritors of Bön.' It is said that the illegitimate son of King Trisong Detsen settled here after being exiled. He was a Bön practitioner, hence the name. Another tradition holds slightly different beliefs but ultimately believes the initial settlement was chosen by a descendant of a Tibetan king.
After walking a few steps down, there's another two-story house called Kanjur Lhakhang. I was told that the Kanjur was first received by the people of Kuenga Rabten from Tibet and kept there, with the commitment to recite it once every year. However, people couldn't continue after a few years, so it was brought to a source of Mangdi River after discussions among concerned authorities. Kanjur recitation is still continued every year by the people of Bemji. Monks from Kharchu Monastery have voluntarily gone there upon the villagers' request in the last few years, starting from the 15th day of the first Tibetan month.
Then I went for another 20-minute ride to Dokseyphel Goenpa in the north.
Dokseyphel Goenpa |
The next day, I began my journey towards Bumthang. I hitched a ride in four vehicles until I reached my destination.
Rickshaw drivers waiting for the customers |
Vegetable seller's waiting for BONI buyer in the early morning. |
The price for this product is much cheaper and they're known for lasting as well. |
Riding this kind of cycle after so many years |
I was barely 9 years old when I saw a bicycle for the first time in Samdrupjongkhar town more than 20 years ago. Although my memory’s couldn't store everything, I can still remember how I felt when I saw a man wearing a dark complexion riding and ringing a bell along the roads: I wondered how bicycles could produce such a melodious sound when there’s obstacles in the front. Later did I know those dark complexions were our neighbor Indians. It was completely different experience for a boy who came all the way from remote village where he had seen nothing but humans, some domesticated and wild animals.
Few years later I could ride bicycles like the one I saw that once made me wondered. Even to these days— whenever I come across bicycle—the one that is mostly used by middle class Indians—which we call it MECHEY CYCLE—it reminds me of my narration thereof.
Lately I, along with four other friends, had a memorable excursion at Ura. This is my first pilgrimage to Ura although I frequently visited the place for some good reasons.
View from Shamzur. |
It was 24th July, Sunday. Mani Lama, as is well known from his previous incarnation with the name, planned to go Kunzangdrak but it got canceled. This made me feel bad about the situation. I'm such kind of a person who will have to clear the bump on my road map. So I asked Lama if we could go Ura for a day's pilgrimage to which he impulsively replied, "sure, where do you think we should go?" I pondered, "wherever Lama has visited," and looked at other friend as we were trying to find the best places. "Longchenpa's place in Ura." I added as it has been in my bucket lists ever since I came to read and know more about the omniscient one.
We waited for the next day.
I set alarm at 3:30 am but woke up at 5:00 am. Quite funny, right? We had to cook lunch and get ready with everything within a short time as I knew in my instinct that Lama was waiting for us. Luckily we were able to do quicker than we expected. After having light breakfast our journey kicked off before seven via old national highway.
It was a cloudy day. We were ready with the weapon to shield ourselves from the rain. Without stopping at any point we straight away went to Shamzur which is about two hours walk from the road point, for slow walker, not for otherwise people. It took us at least one hour, if not additional fifteen minutes, at a normal speed.
Unfortunately we couldn't get the proper explanation of the Lhakhang since care-taker was not there. Thanks to three jewels, at least we got opportunity to get inside with the help of pilgrims who have taken hardship to get the key from a care-taker after walking down the village then going back climbing up towards the Lhakhang.
Nobody explained us anything. If not for Lama we might have returned without hearing anything about that sacred historical structure. The monastery has a statute of Guru Rinpoche as the main nangten constructed as an antidote during those days. According to the narration it was learnt that the villagers didn't help previous Wangthang Lama so previous Mani Lama played main role in the construction which was later consecrated by the Wangthang Rinpoche himself.
I knew nothing more than that. Out of curiosity we went behind the temple and saw beautiful place of Shingkhar down the valley. We took photo in order to keep memories.
Our next destiny was Dechen Choling, one of the eight lings of Longchenpa.
After visiting there we visited a temple which is few minutes walk that has statute of a Shakyamuni Buddha and its believed as wish-fulfiling. Whoever prays here are blessed with whatever they want. I too had wished my share.
We were hungry. No place was suitable for us to sit and munch on our food. After driving 10km we found a place where we could rest and have hefty lunch. We had begun our meal when rain started drenching us despite having umbrellas.
Nevertheless it was an adventure in disguise for all of us. We simply loved everything that has happened.
Some of the photos.
Waste being dumped inside the wood. |
Rest. |
Shingkhar Dechen Choling Seen. |
Breath Taking View. |
Lunch Spoiler: heavy rain. |
I've a fond memories of growing up eating maize since my childhood days. When I received corn (as a chhom) on 25th July from a friend, sent from his home, it reminded me of my days when I would really hate kharang. But there was hardly any options if you've to fill your tummy. Nevertheless what I'm is what I've eaten therefore I'm grateful for those nourishment I received organically unlike the pesticides mixed and the processed foods that we get nowadays.
Roasted maize. I had no idea other than roasting maize in a fire until a friend did this on his induction cooktop. It tasted good but not as much as it would have been from the fire. |
Boiling maize. I tried boiling but it tasted not so good. |
Dear Ata, just wanted to say goodbye once more.
I don't know how to say. I —I —I’m…….I don't know how to begin. Still then, I'm pretending to be okay. Day has never been same since you left us. I hope and pray that you’re fine wherever your fate has taken. As I'm writing, with eyes full of tears, I’m controlling my breath as well.
Alas! Maybe this is part of what life is all about.
I was receiving Chandrakriti’s Madhayamaka when I heard the news that you were admitted to hospital. This treatise is an assertionlessness, which means it doesn't allow us to fall into the trap of existence, non-existence, both and neither of the two. (Those of you who do not know madhyamaka and logic-epistemology, first you'll have to understand and make yourself well versed with the conventional terms of these broad subjects, hence I'll not elaborate beyond this.) I was amongst 27 others for the session but my mind was out of class. I couldn't concentrate thinking about you. When this profound dharma, labeled the king of all treatise, couldn't console me, I thought, nothing would help me at that point of a time. I know some of you'll not like cliché even then as mentioned thereof, this is life and you don't have right to steer, so I kept moving according to what life has to offer. Adjustment, that's what I've read in some books and applied out of no choice in such a situation.
I still remember the day when I went to Thimphu to attend my sick brother. It was 22nd June 2021, my friend was driving a car and in law was at the back seat, I was next to a driver, playing music’s. Of course we found ourselves completely okay externally but only the god knows what was going deep inside us. Personally I was going through mixed feelings. No sooner did we reach Thimphu than my in-law received a call and she told me that a patient was admitted to ICU ( Intensive Care Unit). My only wish at that moment was to see my brother for one last time while he was still breathing, for that to happen I had to wait until next day, we spent night at cousin sister’s house.
We couldn't tell our mom about ICU fearing she might have to go through additional suffering as she has completed half of the 8 days quarantine at one of the hotels in Gelephu. Anyways she told us that she knew few days later from one of her relatives but she chose to remain silently. She also narrated us how quarantine has affected common people during emergencies.
Out of many quarantine related stories, I found two stories touching, this incident actually boosted my mother's energy, that's what she told me. There was a middle aged man from Laya undergoing same quarantine procedures. If you remember, due to landslide and flashfloods caused by heavy rainfall 10 Layap’s lost their lives. The man lost his family members in that tragic incident and was bound to reach and attend funeral rites but no way.
Another man from Tsirang expected to reach during his father's crematorium but 8 days was too long. He told my mother and other people that everything will be finished by the time he manage to reach home.
My son is still alive, my mother thought and made herself stronger amid the toughest time's of her life.
The next day I did a covid test to get permission to enter hospital, later in the afternoon exchanged with my second elder brother who stayed for more than month as an attendant of our sickly brother. I entered a room, knew it as ICU attendees without asking anybody, I was ushered near the door by the eldest in-law but one of the lady, who later became little closer as she was a relative of my friend, requested my in-law to arrange my bedding in their line since they respected my red robe. By the way I felt little uncomfortable to sleep in between the women as I have taken a celibacy vow. Nevertheless I didn't feel guilty for it was situational factors which forced me. I didn't have choice as I believed I was a guest for the first few nights. After two days I found a place in the corner where I met an acquaintance who was IT officer in one of the Ministries. Later we would share our views on buddhism. I felt sad for him too as he lost his mom who was bedridden for more than years supported by ventilation. As promised he texted me two months later about the demise of his mom.
In the ICU attendant is allowed to visit patient after every 3 hours but not exceeding five times in a day. It starts from 5:30 a.m. and ends at 10 p.m. All you've to do is feeding and cleaning.
When I visited ICU for the first time, I was nervous at the same time feard. I wasn't sure how to face myself to someone who's close to me but I made myself strong enough to face as I believe in the mantra of expect the unexpected. When I entered the corridor along with dozens of attendants I saw them walking barefoot after keeping their slippers in a rack, I did the same, I could hear the noise of machines as if they're were pumping something followed by other beeping sounds. Few moments later I saw the patients, they were unconsciously kept in the bed. I couldn't recognize my brother at that instant. When I did, he wasn't my brother. Sorry but honestly, that's how I noticed. I slowly walked towards him. I couldn't handle. I looked at fellow attendants, I could only feel my trembling feet, saw them cleaning and doing other related works. Once again I carefully looked at my brother in disbelief, I could feel the pain, relate myself with him, my eyes were filled with tears, I couldn't greet him properly. So I slipped out of room and sent in-law in my place. For next 10 days I went once in a day or sometimes I didn't go even once. It felt like machines have started to irritate my ears. Those noises have power to make you sick even if you're fit.
During my stay in the hospital I spent my time reciting prayers for the sick people. I visited wards, although hospital has restrictions, tried interacting with some, gave them blessed strings (sungkey) and jinlab. Learned different level of life seeing such patients.
I saw failures and success!
On 4th July 2021, my brother left us, forever. For the first time in my life I witnessed something that would strike everyone of us one day or another. Prior to this, I saw people mourning, I've heard about the passing of somebody's parents, friends, sibling, teacher, student, boss, nephew, uncle, aunty, cousin, loving friend so on and on, never thought this would come soon upon us. The habitual tendencies has obscured truth and I was lost into it.
My brother, those mathematics and computer skills I learned from you have become obsolete by now but the biggest teaching I'll value throughout my life is impermanence of this human body that I learned from you.
I can sum up everything about life like what Robert Frost said, it goes on. It is painful to leave close one but it is quite another thing when our close one leaves us. Everytime I think of you, I pray for you, I pray for beings.
In absence of death I would have never known the essence of birth.