To Yangki, But Not Really

Dear Yangki,

One thing that seldom bothers me while writing is when I don't know how to start or where to end. Interestingly, I can gossip as much as you like in the middle. You are cordially invited to listen to my gossip.

Yangki, as I am writing a simple note to you, I am simultaneously breaking a promise I made to myself last night. I decided, and even told my friends, not to disturb me in any way for ten days, and I would live without contacting anyone. Things turned out otherwise. The main reason is that I have to submit my daily mantra chant when the concerned monks come during their scheduled time; in this case, I had to comply. Sharing some gossip now surely brings me relief for not getting the isolation I desired. Today, which is the third day, I completed one of the three mantras. It may sound strange, but I have much nonsense to share. To be precise, it is gossip! Please bear with me for a few minutes, even though you might have more meaningful tasks in your pipeline. 

On my first day, I woke up to the sound of a vajra bell and damaru, instead of my cell phone alarm, from a neighbor who lives downstairs. I reached for my phone to check the time, and unsurprisingly, it was near six o'clock. After tossing and turning for a few minutes, I managed to shake off my drowsiness. The alarm went off again, and I would have fallen back asleep if it hadn't been for the second reminder.

If there was something new to savor in the morning, it was a potato curry after almost a month for breakfast. I missed potatoes because, like most kids, I am still a potato lover. During my time as a cook (Soepen), during three weeks of voluntary service for Khen Rinpoche (or abbot to some), potatoes, onions, garlic, and pumpkin were never cooked due to health issues and religious beliefs. After enjoying the potato curry, I began my prayers and chanting.

Not long after I started chanting, a distant babble of conversation grew louder as it neared my dwelling, but I didn’t bother to intervene. One of them knocked on the door. They were highly learned monks accompanied by seniors. I nodded when the one who knocked asked if I was staying there. They left, and I felt frustrated. I craned my neck out the window to see if my neighbors were around, but no one was there. I hopped over to the window and locked the door from the outside, thinking no one would disturb me. But like Jerry to Tom, a second group came, and I overheard their conversation. I moved the curtains to let them know I was still inside. It wasn’t funny, by the way. There was no point in locking the door from the outside once they knew I was inside. A third group came and left. I unlocked the door from the outside, still feeling irritated.

My goal was to complete one mantra within three days, so I sped up my efforts from the second day. I wrote my name on a piece of paper and pasted it on the door, hoping to avoid interruptions like the day before. But the more I chanted, the less my mouth could manage. My thumb started aching after running over the beads hundreds and thousands of times. I felt like sleeping. Oh no! Maybe Mara was trying to thwart me? Above all, it is my untamable mind that needs attention. I couldn’t control it for even a few seconds. The harder I tried, the tougher it became. In a fraction of a second, my mind took me on the longest adventures I’ve ever traveled and ever will. Friends I departed from long ago, food I tasted in the past, places I visited, pranks I played, services I rendered, love I received, beauty I witnessed – all vividly resurfaced and triggered an adrenaline rush. I was alone in the room but fully engaged by my mind. The other friends I had were four statues: Sakyamuni Buddha placed on the top rack, and below, from left to right, Vajrasattva, Guru Nangsi Zilnön, and Avalokiteshvara. I watched them as if they were going to talk to me.

Honestly, I signed out of all my social network accounts except for WeChat and my blog, just to stay judiciously connected. In this way, I don't know what’s happening outside. No, I’m not Googling either. You won’t believe it, but I can still faintly hear my neighbor’s TV, though it requires focus. Since I chose to distance myself from any news, whenever I hear "Corona…" on BBS from downstairs, I chant louder – even louder if the sound is clear. For this reason, I am unaware of the current coronavirus cases. I hope and pray that everything will resume from where it left off. May it be a good and great leap, my dear.

Dear Yangki, I regret to say I’ve shared everything in a nutshell. I’m sorry, but most of my gossip remains untold. I didn’t lie, though. I won’t regret not revealing it all – believe me, too much honesty isn’t always good. Some stories aren’t meant to be disclosed, remember that.

Sitting the whole day between four walls, with thoughts racing through my mind uncontrollably and gossip popping up, perhaps it’s my responsibility to share it with you individually, Yangki.

Take care. See you soon.

Thank you,

Jamyang Loden.

COVID-19: I will fight with Prayer

Counting......

Almost all of us, if not, most of us are by now aware of COVID-19 which according to scientist is believed to cause infection by a coronavirus family. Late last year, when it initially started to spread from China’s Wuhan city, many of us remained calm, not knowing kind of waves we would receive later. Despite the effort of world’s think tank in eradication of this viral infection, still things are uncontrollable at some point of time. I personally feel that we as an individuals can also play a vital role by following what concerned authorities have to say. Let me restate some of the common health hacking ideas to avoid transmission because I believe in timely reminder.

1. Wash your hands after touching any objects (follow the steps of hand washing)

2. Social Distancing is also must because we do not know who is infected and who is not, therefore it is safer to keep distance (or if possible isolate yourself).

Although there are many tips down the list I vehemently trust the above two but before getting infected.

Now why I am sharing this is because at this time we must learn to sacrifice based on the priority of our work. Having a comfortable life is must but one cannot risk life by going to a crowded market. Your business might run into loss but still it can boom up to a good profit once we are done with current pandemic. One may wish to go into a new places, I am afraid, who knows if infected people are loitering. Isn’t it not a better idea to remain at home as suggested by many experts? I too believe in impermanence of everything and I am confident that this situation too will end like nothing has happened. Sorry to use ‘nothing’ but yes this will turn into a fact. Many of us will restart to a better and normal life once we win the war.

Going through social networks we get to see and read so many havoc's while some are desperate to do anything to be at the safer side. These shows how unprepared we are to leave this world. We have forgotten that we are a guest and must learn to leave like a guest.

Having said let me also opine some of the thoughts that went through my head in the recent times. First thing I realized was that I am still a coward guy, the one I used to be since I knew my cowardice long time back. I thought things would turn into better, once I start my spiritual journey. But no, nothing will change unless you are not taking extra burden to change. Waiting things would change for me is another cowardice decision alive in me. You know folks, the moment I saw first positive case in Bhutan, in my mother land, I went mentally numb. I didn’t know how to react. I had an itchy feeling running all over my body as if virus has infected me at that moment. I don’t know if victims had that itchy kind of feeling, maybe, it was my psychic feeling, I guess. After I went through such moment I called my close ones to remain hygiene. Thank god I could at least remember to call them otherwise I would drop them a messages and wouldn’t bother whether they read or not. If I learned anything from that incident, it is to remind myself that things can topple down anytime, uncertainly. I must be well prepared to leave this world, not when I  am ready but whenever I receive a call.

Things became normal for me after American man was airlifted to US for the better treatment. I don’t know why but it brought me a relief when I saw and heard such news. Indeed I saw a sigh of relief in many Bhutanese yet government never slept peacefully. It was a call to remind us whether we are ready to face the catastrophe, if no, get ready. With passing of the each day world at large was fighting at their best and still, at this time, many are fighting. Remember that when you have done reading this, many would have succumbed to infections while many positive cases detected. The number might be still increasing every moment. It is a concerning subject but nobody should take advantage of the situation and spread fake news. Some people are innocent and desperate to believe anything given in the social network. Being responsible is also a contribution to the society, especially at this time. Mediocre citizen like us must refrain from spreading any news without authentic sources.

By now some of you might be wondering because I have had enough of bragging as if I am leading some kind of troops to fight the current case. Sorry to say but I am doing nothing. Nothing, because what I am doing won’t have objective value. All I am doing is locking the door from outside and entering inside from the window so that nobody notices me while I am busy on my own. As instructed, I am chanting mantra and praying whole day except taking a rest during lunch and sleeping hours. I hear some of our authorities walking, supposedly on checking, some even touching the curtain, maybe inquiring the presence of some monks. They told us not to go away from monastery boundary, for the safety of us, rather to stay in the respective rooms and do mantras chant. Some may not believe in the power of prayer but my guru told us that collective prayers are heard faster. I have no doubt about that. I am optimistic about prayer and its result. What can a religious person do? Nothing but to sit and pray! Ten years ago our economic teacher told us monks do not contribute economically. Still I am confused. Any ways, even if I am not contributing, I am not liability for the government. To those who believe in prayer, why don’t you choose to do some prayer recitation and try to connect spiritually? Many of us can chant basic mantras and that’s exactly what I am doing. I don’t have sophisticated religious books in front me. All I’ve is a simple prayer book which most of the schools recites daily during their evening time. If you agree to my suggestion and feel's you are not doing any productive job, do not not wait for tomorrow, start chanting. We can still fight, with prayer. 

Be a responsible human!

My Slow And Steady Reading Habits

When it comes to reading I don't have common disciplined habits. I read books whenever I feel like reading without having a strict discipline. Maybe this has hampered me in upgrading my reading habits but I'm reading, at least keeping alive what I love. Sadly I can hardly finish a book in a year and I'm feeling myself that reading habit is slowly fading from me. Of course I read many interesting articles online. Still I'm not satisfied by the fact that I'm forgetting my old habits. 

When I was in high school I read almost 30 books and that was, maybe, a time when I was instilling a habit of reading? After that I couldn't race the pace of my habits of reading though I kept it alive even to these days despite my tight schedule. 

Tight schedule? Yes since I've to go on with my prayer and other monastic related chores. 

Even as a child I had a habit of reading stories although I was academically poor in almost every subjects. By the time I was in my fifth grade I'd done with the stories in English and Dzongkha text book of seventh grade. Before reading actual story I would directly read 'about authors' that would be given at the end after that I may go with the story otherwise I may not. I don't know why but I still have that habit with me. 

Dawa-the story of a stray dog in Bhutan is the first novel for many, including myself, followed by Giver written by ace Kunzang Choden and Lois Lowry simultaneously. For some it is only two novels throughout their live. We owe Education system for this. 

As far as I remember Man, Woman and Child by Erich Segal is my first novel beside every Bhutanese students so far read novel. After having picked that book from the library I was a frequent visitor in the library. My friend and I would be going with any books though some books were too complicated to understand. Some of the books I read are still absurd, I completed just for the sake of reading. Maybe completion of books from first to last has helped me familiarise with different technique of reading and also in the selection of books thereafter.

I read this when I was in my 11th grade, 2009.
Image source: Goodreads. 

Of all the things reading is concerned, the change it has brought in me is something I'll cherish throughout my life. Book reading is truly fascinating habit with incalculable value. People in the past have read and became wise and this is what we must do in order to gain knowledge. I read books because of the two great reasons:

Friendship plays important role in bonding  world outside us. I've also noticed that human hardly stay without friends. Even I need a good companion. It is in book I find my best friend. I laugh, cry, smile and talk with book. Humans are fair-weather friend and foul-weather friend, book is not. It doesn't talk yet conveys deep messages.

Facts: Once I was traveling from Gelephu to Tsirang by bus. I was alone: alone without a friend. You know what I did? I simply took my Nokia XL and sliped into my PDF folder to check if there was an intriguing story. Yeah there was many but I chose a book written by one of the Buddhist scholar,  it was of course Buddhist philosophy, as it also had minimum pages compared to others (I forgot title and author.) In two and half hours journey I was enjoying myself at the full energy. Such a profound philosophy Buddhism has, I thought that time after reading. Frankly I didn't notice how I reached my destiny and what went inside bus. Such is the power of book. 

Learning mostly takes incessantly during reading. While reading you're not only reading the characters but also what kind of messages do the writers want to convey. Indeed you're learning authors opinion on a particular subjects and you as a reader has every right to put view. This is exchange of knowledge. My knowledge is very low in many fields and reading is the only relevant source I can rely. Today I know about far away places which I may not visit in my next lives also, I know about tiniest creatures, I know about legends that revolutionized the living style, I know how to love beings, it is reading habits that has filled something valuable in my empty brain.

I'm listing some of the books I enjoyed and they are not ranked serially.

1. The Monk Who Sold His Ferrari
2. Think And Grow Rich
3. Siddhartha
4. Peace Is Every Step
5. The Heart of Understanding
6. Man, Woman And Child
7. The Story of My Experiments With Truth
8. Unlimited Power
9. You Can Win
10.  The Guide
11. Buddhism and Science: A Guide For The Perplexed
12. Alice In The Wonderland
13. Freedom Is Not Free
14. Things Fall Apart
15. Sapiens (reading......)

I do not remember who inspired me to read stories but I do feel that it was my mother who played a silent role with her bed time stories. Only later I was to know that some of her stories were corrupted but some bed time stories she narrated are not in any of the folk tales I read so far. Maybe those stories have vanished? I wish to rewrite but I'm not sure if my mother can recollect 'coz it is more than two decades that she narrated to any of us. It is a social changes. Technology easily lured children to embrace new gadgets. Thank God! My generation got to listen those bed time stories.  

In today's world it is going to be a challenge for parents to make their children learn through reading. Many of us are lazy to flip even a page. We don't want to invest even few minutes on reading but long hours with cell phone is okay. Am I investing into internet productively? I'm not sure but I try. I remind that I should not pay service providers to spoil me.

I'll keep reading although I'm slow and steady. 

Drukmo: The Story Behind the Name (འབྲུག་མོ།)

Copyright @ Jamyang Tashi Yangki 

I do not know how to begin. Even then, I'll try to do justice to my feelings in introducing this logo and the hidden meanings it carries.

By the way, Tashi Yangki and I share a good bond of friendship, and we are emotionally connected. She and I are friends, but I cannot coin a word to describe our true relationship. Nevertheless, that's not very important to know. We equally respect our relationship and the kind of bond we share; that is all I can sum up in a nutshell.

The logo that she recently posted on her Facebook page was neither created by her nor conceived in her head. It was created by her close Tibetan friends with the help of Golden Pen Limited.

For me, I value everything, but not much if I do not get a valid reason. And for her logo, too, I was eager to know why her Tibetan friends designed it in such a way. This curiosity triggered Yangki to ask her logo creators. Mind you, they have amazing reasons to describe, which I immediately felt compelled to blog and share with you all.

I am sure what comes to your mind when you see the word 'Drukmo,' and yes, you're right—it is because she is from Druk (Bhutan). Therefore, 'mo' should be understood as a suffix that completes the meaning of Drukmo as a 'female from Druk.' But this is not the only reason. The story dates back to the time of Ling Gesar Gyalpo, whose story is known to most of us Bhutanese. King Gesar had a wife who was born to an aristocratic family, with a kind heart, compassion for all beings, love for everyone without bias, and beauty in her appearance. She was not born with auspicious signs. She was an ordinary woman doing all those wonderful deeds. Her name was Sengcham Drukmo. In the logo, the girl has an ordinary face because Drukmo was an ordinary woman.

Also, in her recent trips to Tibet, Yangki visited a lake known as Yelhung Lhayi Tshomo, which is connected to a girl by the same name who was responsible for discovering treasures. Upon reaching the lake, one feels a joyfulness like never before. Moreover, Yangki is said to be the first female from Bhutan to reach that sacred place, according to her Tibetan friends. With these beautiful stories, this is how they came up with Drukmo. Different colors represent the four elements: fire, water, earth, and wind. The rest doesn't carry much meaning because it is the name that speaks everything.

Few people may understand what Yangki does, but I feel her intention and the kind of work she is interested in. I'm sure Drukmo is the right word her Tibetan friends gave. I do not find any other words better than this. Yes! You're a true Drukmo. Tibetans are fascinated by the name Drukmo, and whoever has extraordinary traits gets the name. It is hard to get this name, but you've earned it. I will always pray for your visionary journey.

Ordinarily extraordinary you are!

Kunzangdra Nyekor and a short visit to Ogyen Choling

Kunzangdra 

Walking towards kunzangdra

Pema Lingpa's personal cottage used as Goenkhang to this day is first seen upon reaching the base. 

On 20th October we planned to go Kunzangdra & perhaps the last pilgrimage of the year. This time we were six of us who were genuinely interested. We decided to hire a taxi for whole day so that we can visit some other places too. After good negotiation with Mr. Buda Man Tamang my friends have fixed seven seater Eeco car. We were to depart at 7:00 a.m. from Chamkhar. He had agreed to take us at Nu.2500/- although it may not be similar with the other cabs. The very next day when I met our taxi driver, I knew he would be a jolly person because he was totally outgoing; maybe in his early forties. I was in the front seat simply comforting ourselves with the formal conversations and later, once we knew more closely, it would be any kind of talks. At an average speed, we reached Drangchel village at 8:30 a.m. and from there feeder road took us at least ten minutes till the end of road point. After parking our taxi, we walked for 30mins and finally reached our destiny.

Glimpse of Wangkhang or main temple is seen at the back

Kunzangdra literally means Kun-all, zang-good and dra-cliff. Just like four other dras, Kunzangdra is also blessed by Guru Rinpoche but it was native Bhutanese saint in 1488 as per the prophecy, one of the five treasure discoverers, Terton Pema Lingpa who founded the monastery. Legend has it that Pema Lingpa saw Kuntu Zangpo (Samantabhadra), one of the primordial Buddhas, once while gazing up from his birth place Chel; the name Kunzangdra actually is a derivation of the incident. Later sixth Namkhai Nyingpo (Akashagarbha) too visited and did many religious conducts like meditation and prayers.

Khandro Lhakhang built by hundred thousand khandoms and guardian deities

Kunzangdra has three important temples. The main and oldest temple, in the middle, known as Wangkhang, was built by Pema Lingpa. It houses three important statues, Amitabha (left), Chuchezhey (middle) and Guru Nangsi Zilyon (on the right side of shrine). All three statues were brought from Pema Lingpa’s Mani Gonpa which is located below Kunzangdra in the south-west direction. Apart from this three statues temple also has a statue of sixth Namkhai Nyingpo, one of the heart son amongst 25 disciples of Guru Rinpoche. (Please read about sixth Namkhai Nyingpo in Kunzangdra if you come across any article to enlighten more.) On the way to Khandro Lhakhang there are many stories related to chorten, trees, drupchu, cliffs etc. Khandro Lhakhang was founded by Pema Lingpa’s consort on the same place where Khandro Yeshey Tshogyal is believed to have mediated. According to the mythology, hundred thousand khandoms (dakinis)  constructed the base and rest by guardian deities under the supervision of Drasung Rahula. The Lhakhang has a self speaking statue of Pema Lingpa made by himself, statue of Chenrizig (Avalokiteshvara) and Dorji Phagmo (Vajravarahi). Also there are Pema Lingpa’s footprints in woodblock and stone anvil marking that he was signing off from worldly possessions. Third temple houses Goenkhang (santum) which used to be once Pema Lingpa’s living cottage. Gonpo Maning Nagpo (Mahakala’s emanation) is the main deity and it is dedicated to him and a self spoken statue of Pema Lingpa too is seen. We wanted to visit a cave above the monastery which is also used as meditation house since to this day. I was told that there are sacred nye but kungnyer didn't allow us since village people belief it will bring bad to the vicinity. It is allowed only after the completion of harvesting season which falls after 15th of ninth month of Tibetan calender. There are many sacred stories in the surroundings but we were not really bothered hoping and praying that we will visit next time.

Ogyen Choling

It was 10:00 a.m. when we returned from Kunzangdra monastery. We had enough time and  therefore decided to visit Ogyen Choling Museum. It was first time visit for all except our taxi driver. It takes around 15 minutes to reach museum from Khangrab school road divergent point.

Ogyen Choling villagers busy with their work after harvest

The history of Ogyen Choling first dates back to the visit of great Dzogchen ‘school of great perfection’ master Longchen Rabjam from Tibet. Longchen decided to choose the place for meditation purpose because when he looked from the valley, panoramically, Ogyen Choling resembled the head of an elephant. In Buddhism elephant is venerated, therefore, Longchen too felt the positive outcome in the future if he choose the location for his centre. We walked few hundred metres above the present Ogyen Choling, climbing towards the crown of an elephant which to this day is revered as Longchen’s meditation cave. It was unlucky for us since there was a hermit on the exact cave, mediating. We had to retreat our move from the nearby cave that is elongated. 

After the blessing of Longchen Rabjam the place later became centre of great Tibetan treasure discoverer Dorji Lingpa. Today there is a temple adjacent to Ogyen Choling museum which houses the statues of Dorji Lingpa and other great boddhisatvas. Later the descendent of Dorji Lingpa were to uphold the religious traditions, choeju, and genealogical lineage, dungju. They were considered religious nobility known as ‘lama choeju’ that means a highly respected family. Tsokye Dorji was the notable figure and the fifteen generation descendent of Dorji Lingpa who became a governor of Trongsa. Today Azhi Kunzang Choden who have authored quite a number of books resides at Ogyen Choling. Azhi Kunzang Choden is the twentieth generation descendent of the noble lineage. 

Welcome

Photograph with Azhi Kunzang Choden 

Museum was formally opened in May 2001 with an aim of preserving and promoting Ogyen Choling as the centre of religion and culture because of its association with the two great Tibetan masters Longchen Rabjam and Dorji Lingpa. Local visitors have to pay Nu.20/- while international visitors have to pay around ten times more than locals (but I am not sure, forgot to ask). Any ways, museum displays around twenty exhibitions and photography is allowed unless you do not touch anything. It is mostly about the 19th and 20th century living conditions of the great family that the museum has for the display. I'm pretty sure it will be of great use for the scholars and students to know what kinds of tools were used in the olden days. Everyday museum receives good number of visitors both from local and international.

A cave where Longchenpa mediated above Ogyen Choling village.

Did you know there are eight lings of Longchen Rabjam in Bhutan? Tharpaling, Shingkhar Dechenling and Tang Ugyencholing in Bumthang, Kunzangling in Lhuntse, Kothang Pemaling (or Rinchenling) and Menlok Kunzangling in Wangdue, Nyenlong Drechagling, and Paro Samtenling. 

It was exactly 1:20 p.m. when we ate lunch at the bank of Tang river. 

On our way back, we decided to visit Zangdo Pelri at Dungmithang. Zangdo Pelri was built under the command of His Majesty the fifth king. It is few minutes drive from the highway. From there one can see Kunzangdra towards north direction. There is sheep farm few hundred metres away from Zangdo Pelri. We came across many sheep grazing and gambolling on our way. Our one day pilgrimage ends here.

I had a successful and breathtaking trip. See you next time.

P.s. I've referred various facebook accounts and Ogyen Choling webpage to gather information. 

Tharpaling Nyekor & Kikiphu Hike

Towards Tharpaling

Tharpaling lies at an elevation of 3600m and is about one hour drive from Chamkhar valley. If you take Lamaigonpa trek, it will be almost 3 hours walk. The taxi fare from Chamkhar to Tharpaling was Nu.1500/- which means Nu.350/- per head. We boarded Wagon R taxi. Also if you trek from Kikila it may take 4 hours roughly. Likewise there are several routes to reach Tharpaling. Our car began at 6:40 a.m. from Chamkhar. As we continued, when we reached Urok, there were herd of cattles supposedly on their winter migration. We stopped to buy milk and cheese. The herder told us that they were leaving for Jo-Durshing, trying to speak in English too, 'bay-lag mo-tain,' which he meant was a black mountain. They were offering us curd and milk but we denied. The cheese was already sold before our arrival so bought milk and continued our drive. Unlike in the past Tharpaling monastery is connected with paved road. The time was 8:07 a.m. when we reached Tharpaling.

Lady herder pouring milk 

Chodra Gonpa

Chodra Gonpa entrance

There are two different accounts to why it is called as Chodra, of course as per the oral history. First story tell's about a dharma being concealed at the cliff by a great Guru Rinpoche. Which literally means Cho-dharma and dra-cliff. Second story goes little different. It is said that a person who have cleansed off their negative karma can hear the sound of dharma from the cliff upon listening closely. That's why the name Cho-dharma and dra-sound is given. However I'm not really sure since I didn't get the written information. Yet I believed what I'm being told by the kungyer as it seems relevant in both the case. Folks, this is not the only story about Chodra. There are many interesting stories one will come across if you happen to visit. For some reason I'm not going to share the stories in details. It is better to visit once in your lifetime.

Towards the left of a monastery there are many sacred nye. We covered the entire sacred places. It was full of fun and blessing at the most.

View of a place where Drasung Lhatso is located

One interesting story tells that the Longchenpa had entrusted his horse to adrung, in charge of the horse. However Locals of Domkhar complained that their wheat crop in Pangri was destroyed by his horse. It was obvious of such incident since Longchen did not have grazing land. Land of Domkharpa, Urokpa and Gyalsapa surrounded Samling. Anyways to know the allegations, one morning, without the notice, Longchen struck the end of thread ball on the back of adrung’s attire using needle, the thread ball began to unravel until it stopped.  Then Longchen followed the thread that didn't lead towards horse but lake above Urok known as Shawabumpai Tsho. He saw many ritual objects and instruments displayed at lakeshore while adrung was swimming. Longchen instantly recognized that his adrung was not a man but Rahula who was the protector of Nyingma. When Longchen unknowingly stepped on some dry leaves, adrung threw all objects into the lake on hearing the rustling sound. All Longchen could get was a cymbal. Today the same cymbal is kept in Samling as a ter. Prostrating before Rahula, Longchen explained that he had never known the true identity of his adrung. The lake came to be known as Drasung Latsho. 
                 -From Oral construction of Exile life and Times of Kunkhyen Longchen Rabjam in Bumthang by Dorji Penjore.

Drasung Lhatso

We met Ani who spends most of her time meditating at Chodra Gonpa. She was so helpful that she even guided us towards the lake and it was her who narrated to me the story about Drasung Tsho but little different than the one I shared above after proper research. Around 10:50 a.m. we’d tea at their monastery guest room. (Of course we served our own tea that we carried with us.) Anyhow I'm thankful to Ani for her kind help. We would have loved to spend a night at Chodra after knowing the significance and also hospitality we received,  unfortunately we had to return. Next time!

Another sacred is to get a blessings from Nyushul Khenpo’s kudung chorten which is a few minutes walk above Chodra.

Just above Longchen Zhugthri, my friends

Kitiphu hike

After walking about 15 minutes from Chodra we came to another significant place. It is known as Longchen Zhugthri in which he spent most of the time composing and writing Longchen Dzod Dun. (Many believes Dzod Dun was composed and completed at Gangri Thoedkar in Tibet)

Longchen Zhugthri

Kikiphu trail starts from Zhugthri. Kikiphu lies at 4000m above sea level.  Therefore we were all excited. Precisely I was eager although I do not consider myself a good mountain climber. Since it was 12:38 p.m. we decided to take lunch at first base. By the way our lunch was packed from Welcome Hotel in Chamkhar. Eating in a mountain top is something I really enjoy. It was a delicious lunch.

When we were about to have lunch

Since we live in a digital world, we were taking pictures whenever we felt like, and at the most, simply hypnotized by the beauty of the mountain slopes, clouds and aroma of balu-sulu. It took us almost 2 hours to reach the  top because we walked and talked prolonging our journey. Otherwise I am sure it won't take more than hour. When you reach at the top it is as if touching the sky with your head. Entire Bumthang valley is seen and even Gangkar Punsum with blanketed snow at this time of a year. I wished if I had binoculars. Carry it, if you've.

At the back is seen Kikiphu

Kikiphu is also a home to some of the endangered wild animals. We spotted monal pheasant and other pheasant species. Also in the recent times tiger was seen in the Kikiphu region. We saw pooh but not sure of what animals although my instinct says it belong to a carnivores. 

Entire Chamkhar valley and Kharchu at the tip of finger 

Upon reaching the summit we offered smoke and prayers to appease the deities. How happy it was to go to the top of a mountain and do several wish fulfilling activities. I'm, no more cliché, simply  mesmerized.

Overlooking Chamkhar valley

Offering smoke and prayer at the summit of Kikiphu 

Returning 

Our initial plan was to take a Lamai Gonpa route. Since we missed to visit Tharpaling and other important sacred sites in the morning, we decided to take the same route through Chumey valley. It was already 4:30 p.m. when we reached the base of the mountain. And also it was getting dark. However we rushed to Tharpaling monastery but we couldn't locate even after asking an old man who was circumambulating nearby monastery. Later only did we saw the real Tharpaling monastery but it was late by that time. We had already reached other side of the road. I prayed, I'll come again.

Four of us hurried towards Trongsa-Bumthang highway when lo, and behold! short cut route messed us. By that time it was dark and using mobile flash light. To ease the confusion, I checked my cell phone and used google maps. Since none of us read google maps professionally it was  challenging. Still it was useful for direction purpose, though. One good thing, as per maps, was we were heading Samling but who would dare to allow us see ter (mentioned in the story above) at such an odd hours? Nevertheless we never talked anything than reaching the highway. To minimise risk we avoided short cut route and walked all the way from Samling village road to Urok-Gyalsa. It was not a pitch dark due to moon so walking in such serene atmosphere added another story in my diary. Such a raw experience for me. When we hit the highway, hardly, there was any movement of vehicle although it was only 7 o'clock. We thought to hitchhike till Chamkhar otherwise find taxi from the nearby house. After failing to get hitchhike, I called my sister, whose husband is a teacher at Chumey to manage taxi. Sometimes later brother-in-law lifted us till taxi driver's home and from there we reserved till Chamkhar. After dinner we reached monastery around 9:45 p.m. With so much body ache and also satisfaction, I sighed with relief.

Visiting Tharpaling, we missed to visit the main Tharpaling monastery. Perhaps it is another call for us?

Thowadra Nyekor

View of Thowa-Dra from the left

This year is my 11 years in Bumthang. Yet I've many beautiful and sacred places to explore. It is also true of what our local travellers were saying in their recent travel venture that Bhutan already have enough to keep us engaged both socially and spiritually. Socially because we have various groups of people dwelling in different parts of our country. They have their own distinct way of living including their dialect. Our country maybe small in size yet it is huge is culture. And spiritually Bhutan is rich. I've observed everything rooted to spiritualism. Believe it or not we even love and respect smallest of the insects to the biggest of pachyderms. Though small in size, over the past years, our country has evolved unique spiritual connection and passed onto us. 

End of road point from the bridge

Isn't it going to be a wonderful exploration in our country?

Welcome

As a spiritual practitioner myself sometimes going out of monotonous monastic life gives me some energy. Maybe I get nature's unbiased healing treatment from the jungle? I feel connected. Not always but once in a blue moon I decide to walk through the deep forest and reach a destiny where I can get blessing in return. 

On the way

On 30th Sept 2019 my friends and I visited one of the oldest temple known as Thowadra Since it was an unplanned trip we couldn't afford to include many interested friends. Nevertheless there's always next time.

Taking a rest on the way

From Chamkhar valley, on an average speed, the car managed to reach us after 2 hours drive. But I'm sure it won't take long during non-rainy days or seasons. I think we were unlucky, at least, for consuming ample of time in the bumpy ride after Tang Central School and that too in marshy road. By the way we were four and none have visited earlier. So it was obvious that we were to seek villagers help. Just before reaching Khangrab school junction we asked one man and he told us to take our car till we reach old house which would also be the last house 'coz road condition wouldn’t be better than worst beyond that point. As directed we kept driving. Since the road condition was poor we again asked another middle aged man and he told us that we were almost nearing what we were told by the first man. Like what those two man said, we approached old house but it was a complete silence at that instant. We didn't find any people in that house perhaps they’d gone for the farming work. Oh! There was an old man with rosary in his hand but I noticed that he was a blind as bat and deaf as post. We found some hope in our car that it would lead us till zero point hence continued without parking our car as suggested. It was not a worst road though rain in the previous night has ruined. In the middle of the road was hilux. We honked. Thought driver might turn-up after urinating around (whatever we expected driver would return.) Later we knew it was parked since there was slipped marks on the mud. Our car too parked behind theirs but not in the middle. I should say, we‘d some civic sense. Sorry! I didn't mean to hurt. It was gloomy weather so had to carry umbrella from that point. After walking almost ten minutes we managed to reach zero point. It was the start point of our destiny. I checked my cell phone to keep the track of time. It was 8:55 a.m. 

Birds eye view of Tang valley 

Most enchanting about jungle is you get to see exceptional flora and fauna. Frankly speaking, I thoroughly enjoy watching those varieties. 

I'm physical weak and this has always kept me behind my friends not only in walking a distance but in almost every manual work. On that day too I was behind. Thank god there was one friend and he was absolute behind me. By the way I didn't introduce any of them? So sorry. How selfish I'm. The two who leads are Jampel Yeshey and Jurmey Dorji. Those two guys walked better than us in the behind. But I'm not impressed. (I'll let you all know why I wasn't impressed in the latter part of our journey.) And the gentleman behind me is Lhakpa Tshering. It seemed to me that he couldn't walk since he do not have much experiences other than dealing with machines. Every loser gives excuses but our isn't. Any ways we rested after walking every few distances. After walking 37 minutes the first glimpse of blissful Thowadra was seen amid the giant pine tree leaves. When we walked few steps from there, it also begins different slope of the mountain assuring us to the real destiny above. Excited, at the same time I wished to reach without walking the slope. Still then my perseverance kept me going. I visualized Guru Rinpoche and Gelongma Palmo for they were the one who blessed that place long time ago and that has motivated me mentally to keep walking forward. The first door of Nye welcomes you and it is at the left side. From there onwards different Nye is seen since the concern people have put up a description in Tibetan script over the plank. When we were about to reach two men in the lead left us behind. I'd to squint my eyes to see them but in vain. They were not near two of ours short call. Lhakpa and I rested and walked steadily. Two of us reached to a point where two junction of path was there. It seemed misleading because of similar usage in both but I confidently took left. At that instant Lhakpa got a call from Jurmey which was a confirm in itself that they went into different direction. Two of us laughed. I told you in the beginning that I wasn't impressed because slow and steady wins the race. Lhakpa and I reached fast than the two in the lead. It was 11:31 a.m.

Lunch time

Finally we made to Thowadra. Gleefully we were treated with tea and biscuits by Kungyer (caretaker) and disclosed us the main religious items at his private resident. He told us the reason is because he doesn't feel safe to keep sacred thing inside temple which is also far from his house. Just seeing the sacred items I felt blessed. Indeed totally blessed. Can't express the feeling in words. Having finished the sacred watch we went to main temple and nearby surroundings to get ourselves a blessings. You'll find why it is called Thowadra when you look at Tang valley from there. The literal meaning of Thowadra is ‘high rock’ where you'll find huge rock as if dangling. Annually people of Tang comes together during Nyung-Nye, Kanjur and other religious ceremony celebrations. The place is not only a sacred because of Padmasambhava and Gelongma Pelmo. Many great lamas like Dorji Lingpa, Jigme Lingpa, Longchen Rabjam has connection here. Sorry I couldn't research more about the monastery and also the fact of Konyer without much historical information. The little information I got from friends and google.

Only time we were in one frame

While returning it didn't take more than 30 minutes till road point. With so much fun we decided to lunch at beautiful Tang valley. It was already 3:41 in the evening when we ate lunch.

Wow! What a wonderful journey. 

See you next time.